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Thread: Water under the car

  1. #1
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    Water under the car

    I took my wife for a long drive today. It was nice. I noticed the new front coilovers were bottoming out fairly easy, so I jacked up the front to access the damping adjustment. Look under the car to see water pooring out at the rear of the triangle plate. It was cristal clear water and about 1/2 gallon.

    I'm assuming it is melted ice from my evaporator. I guess I need more freon. My question, is there not some drain tube for that water? I didn't jack the car up for over two hours since the drive. Don't like the idea of water sitting in there. I looked at the DMC parts diagram and didn't see any drain tube. Am I missing something?

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    It's definitely a/c evaporator drain water. Likely your drain hose pulled up and is dumping into the closing plate area then running to the rear of the car. That happened to me so I grabbed the hose and attached another 6 inches of heater hose to it and now it drains directly below the frame onto the ground. The evaporator will put out a lot of water if it is working correctly, it's not ice as the a/c wouldn't work if it was iced up. There is a screen in the front of the evaporator that prevents ice from forming.

  3. #3
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    The drain is a jacked up design. It drains through the underbody via some funky elbow rubber grommet that is impossible to attach once removed for cleaning and a drain hose that isn't long enough to keep the water off the frame. I routed a new hose from the evap, through the underbody, and under the car allowing the water to hit the ground and not the frame...a novel concept only used by pretty much all other manufacturers.
    http://dmctalk.org/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=90&dateline=161808992  9

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    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    +1 all of the above

    DRAIN TUBE HERE
    NLA

  5. #5
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    My VIN:    I respect my vin enough not to whore it out among the masses.

    If yours is missing, I think I used a boot from an ignition coil and a clear piece of tubing. I zip tied the bottom end to keep it from moving around too much.
    http://dmctalk.org/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=90&dateline=161808992  9

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    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

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    Thanks to all. My wife didn't notice any water in the foot well. (Sandal type shoes) I will check today. If it's dry, can I assume the hose is in place and just not long enough?

    Johnathan, that picture is impressive, but for the life of me, I can't see the tube. I must be blind. I assume I should look in the pax wheel well to see it on my car? Or do I need to be under the car?

    My AC does freeze up still after about twenty minutes and I have to switch it off for a bit to melt the ice. On this subject, I'll query you guys on my situation.

    When I got the car, my guages showed pressure in the system, but the AC pressure switch didn't work. I got a new one from DMC and it worked. (Except for freezing) After a bit (maybe two tanks of gas), it quit again. I pulled the switch and tested it and it works. If I jump the wires, the AC works, But no pressure gets to the switch. I'm guessing the shrader is clogged. I have fancy little tool that I can remove a shrader valve without releasing the freon, but in this case, the threads that hold the shrader are wrecked up. I ordered a new accumulator. (That fitting is welded in)

    So right now I'm just driving with a jumper wire in place of the switch. Am I correct in thinking the only danger in driving like this is compressor failure if the freon leaks out?

  8. #8
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    You said you had pressure in the system but don't say what the pressure was. If you have the gauges what were the pressure for the low pressure side and the high pressure side with the car running and the a/c online?

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    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Thanks to all. My wife didn't notice any water in the foot well. (Sandal type shoes) I will check today. If it's dry, can I assume the hose is in place and just not long enough?
    Not really...

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    My AC does freeze up still after about twenty minutes and I have to switch it off for a bit to melt the ice. On this subject, I'll query you guys on my situation.
    Low refrigerant OR restricted air flow through the evaporator can cause freeze over. If the refrigerant is low, it will expand too much when it enters the evaporator and get too cold. This causes condensation on the evaporator to freeze instead of dripping off. This in turn restricts air flow through the evaporator -- If air can't flow through the evaporator (due to this, condensation not draining, or because the evaporator/screen is dirty), heat in the air doesn't transfer to the refrigerant and get carried away to the condenser...

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    When I got the car, my guages showed pressure in the system, but the AC pressure switch didn't work. I got a new one from DMC and it worked. (Except for freezing) After a bit (maybe two tanks of gas), it quit again. I pulled the switch and tested it and it works. If I jump the wires, the AC works, But no pressure gets to the switch. I'm guessing the shrader is clogged. I have fancy little tool that I can remove a shrader valve without releasing the freon, but in this case, the threads that hold the shrader are wrecked up. I ordered a new accumulator. (That fitting is welded in)
    You might try one of these repair tools first.

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    So right now I'm just driving with a jumper wire in place of the switch. Am I correct in thinking the only danger in driving like this is compressor failure if the freon leaks out?
    No, you are taking a very high risk of over-pressure, where anything in the system can blow up.
    (You shouldn't rely on the high pressure switch, which many Ds didn't come with.)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdrusn View Post
    You said you had pressure in the system but don't say what the pressure was. If you have the gauges what were the pressure for the low pressure side and the high pressure side with the car running and the a/c online?
    That wasn't really pertinent to the question, but I recall about 25 low side and 220 high side.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Not really...


    Low refrigerant OR restricted air flow through the evaporator can cause freeze over. If the refrigerant is low, it will expand too much when it enters the evaporator and get too cold. This causes condensation on the evaporator to freeze instead of dripping off. This in turn restricts air flow through the evaporator -- If air can't flow through the evaporator (due to this, condensation not draining, or because the evaporator/screen is dirty), heat in the air doesn't transfer to the refrigerant and get carried away to the condenser...


    You might try one of these repair tools first.

    No, you are taking a very high risk of over-pressure, where anything in the system can blow up.
    (You shouldn't rely on the high pressure switch, which many Ds didn't come with.)
    I understand what's going on with the freeze up.

    That tool requires recovering the freon. If/when I do that, I will replace the accumulator/dryer.

    Is that pressure switch a "over pressure" also? If not, (I don't think it is) I don't see how jumping it would risk explosion. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

    Also, if I "shouldn't rely on the high pressure switch , which many Ds didn't come with", what should I rely on?

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