FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 67

Thread: Water under the car

  1. #31
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  SK, Canada

    Posts:    2,334

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (ADOA)

    The cycle time is dependent on the ambient temperature. The hotter it is, the compressor will cycle less as it will be engaged longer. the colder it is the compressor will engage for shorter periods of time and cycle off more than it is on.
    Like Michael said pressures are everything.

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
    LS Swap Parts:
    http://lsdelorean.com

  2. #32
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,770

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Got to love the Internet. Lol
    +1! LOL

    I just did a quick search on eBay for a R12 clutch cycling system switch similar to a D's, listing its range.
    HERE is the only one I could find. It fits 1980 GM - 1993 Volvo, "OFF 28psi ON 47psi".

  3. #33
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,770

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    The cycle time is dependent on the ambient temperature.
    +1

  4. #34
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    564

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    +1! LOL

    I just did a quick search on eBay for a R12 clutch cycling system switch similar to a D's, listing its range.
    HERE is the only one I could find. It fits 1980 GM - 1993 Volvo, "OFF 28psi ON 47psi".
    On the DMC site, it says the switch is "new old stock". So I'm going to assume it's for R12. It's really strange how it worked at first and now I can't get pressure out of that shrader. Do you suppose the PO put stop leak in and it clogged the port?

    It really sucks to recover the whole system to install another accumulator just to get that shrader working. I don't want to try to fix the shrader threads because I kind of have a rule. "Every time I open a system, I replace the dryer". When I worked on walkin freezers, I did triple vacuum with nitrogen sweeps in between and I still replaced the dryer.

  5. #35
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,770

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    On the DMC site, it says the switch is "new old stock". So I'm going to assume it's for R12. It's really strange how it worked at first and now I can't get pressure out of that shrader. Do you suppose the PO put stop leak in and it clogged the port?

    It really sucks to recover the whole system to install another accumulator just to get that shrader working. I don't want to try to fix the shrader threads because I kind of have a rule. "Every time I open a system, I replace the dryer". When I worked on walkin freezers, I did triple vacuum with nitrogen sweeps in between and I still replaced the dryer.
    Very well could have...you know POs.
    If you haven't already, maybe see that the stem is straight and moves??
    {Damn, it's getting to where I spend as much time on dodging bullets and toes as the problem at hand...not necessarily aimed at you... ...LOL}

    I don't do walkin, but have the same rule.

  6. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    8,071

    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Either the little piece that pushes on the core is missing from your hose fitting or it just isn't long enough. I use a tool that extracts the valve while my hose is connected so I don't have to vacuum and fill through the tiny opening of the valve core. The cycle time is dependent on the ambient temperature AND the RPM's of the motor. The point is, it MUST cycle or the evap coil will freeze up. I run the motor at about 1200 RPM's and use a fan in front of the car when I am charging or testing the A/C. Make sure the cabin fan is on high, temp all the way cold and mode on MAX or A/C. That gets it cycling about 10 seconds on and 10 seconds off with R-12 at about 80 degrees. Your results may vary depending on exactly how much R-12 is in your system, how clean your coils are, how much oil, etc. Just too many variables to give you an exact #.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #37
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    8,235

    My VIN:    03572

    Cycle time is also dependent on air flow over the evaporator. Turn you fan on low or turn it off and see how short the compressor cycle on time is and how long the off time is.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #38
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    216

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    Even with a correctly charged system cycle times are not etched in stone. It's about pressure. You may have a compressor that is not as strong as the next guys, or a r12 system converted to 134 woll probably not be as efficent as a newer one designed for 134. With a properly charged and functioning system, your compressor should engage around 37psi and disengage around 25(I don't have the exact numbers in front of me but I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm off so much as one degree).

    Your system may cycle regularly at highway speeds but may not cycle at all at idle because the pressure may never gets low enough, especially with a retrofitted system.

    It's not an exact science since so many of us have compressors not original to the r12 OE system.

    Mine is a bit of a bastard child. I have my pressure switch set just a tad higher as mine is converted from r12 so I don't have to worry as much about freezing. Mine will still cycle but not as often as it did when I was on R12.
    And to confuse matters, I cleaned out my hamster cage, and now the system moves the air around so much better that often the A/C is too much, so I just use the fan.

  9. #39
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    564

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Cycle time is also dependent on air flow over the evaporator. Turn you fan on low or turn it off and see how short the compressor cycle on time is and how long the off time is.
    Right now my cycle time is about 20 minutes. I turn it on and after twenty minutes, it freezes up and I turn it off. Lol. It will be that way till I get the shrader fixed.

    Quote Originally Posted by MrChocky View Post
    And to confuse matters, I cleaned out my hamster cage, and now the system moves the air around so much better that often the A/C is too much, so I just use the fan.
    One of the first things I did when I got the car was pull the fan motor and oil it. (It was making noise) I cleaned it good at that time. Ever since, it throughs lots of air. My wife even commented the air comes out the door vents good. I do leave the blower on high because it helps it not freeze up.

  10. #40
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    564

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    If you haven't already, maybe see that the stem is straight and moves??
    .
    The stem doesn't look straight and I don't think it moves. (In and out) When I use my fancy tool, I can unthread it about one and half turns. Then it just won't go any further. So I thread it back in before I remove the tool. I guess I could try unthreading it with a regular shrader tool, but I don't feel like getting a face full of freon if the threads strip all of a sudden. I have never run into a clogged shrader before. Leaking one, yes, but clogged no. I wonder if 40 year old dryer material could clog the port.

Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •