FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: Black and Red Paint Removal From Stainless

  1. #1
    Senior Member Ras12's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2012

    Location:  New England

    Posts:    324

    My VIN:    10350 & 2083 SEARCHING FOR VIN#16664

    Club(s):   (DMCNE)

    Black and Red Paint Removal From Stainless

    For several years now I have been debating on whether to remove the paint from #2083 or go over her with a Vinyl Wrap or [url]www.dipyourcar.com PlastiDip. Well as of this past weekend there is no turning back as we started to bring her back to her former glory. BTW...I did not paint her and don’t have the history behind why she was painted first RED then BLACK but I’m sure to find out once the paint is removed. When I say “we” I am referring to myself and my three kids. One child used a Craftsman Paint Remover and Restorer tool (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGW1_FPIcBk), another used a Harbor Freight DA Sander, and the one who gives me the most grief used the Aircraft Paint Stripper and Remover with the plastic bags trick (don’t worry I couldn’t find the Aircraft Remover with the chemicals the EPA has since banned so they had to use the environmentally friendly one).

    Here are some photos of the beginning stages. The DA sander worked the best but I have to be careful to ensure that we stop at the primer level so we don’t mess up the grain. The hard part is going to be removing the paint from the door jambs!

    I have read the thread here about RED’s transformation back to stainless and wish I could use the “old school chemical laced” Aircraft Stripper as that works awesome. The new stuff doesn’t do anything. So if anyone has Any suggestions please let me know.

    Thanks

    Jason
    Last edited by Ras12; 06-02-2021 at 09:08 PM.
    ---------------------------------
    SEARCHING FOR VIN #16664
    ---------------------------------

  2. #2
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,127

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Keep us posted how this project progresses! And be careful with the aircraft stripper on the fascias. I've heard stories of them dissolving from chemicals like that.
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880
    Modifications done to my car can be seen in this video: https://youtu.be/ncMjW2pI2e4

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    577

    I've heard of people spraying some kind of nut shells through a sand blaster. (Like peanut or walnut) I also saw a jet being stripped with carbon dioxide. (I think) I'm not sure how that works.

  4. #4
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    2,285

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Here is a job done by Soda blasting:

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...-a-painted-car
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  5. #5
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    2,054

    My VIN:    5003 Never placed Concourse

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    When they removed methylene chloride from paint strippers, I had a real problem finding a solution to stripping paint from cars, especially ones from the 50s where it could have multiple coats of paint from repaints on it. With the good old paint removers, you'd apply it, wait, and then everything would come off in one swipe of a scraper. Not anymore. So I tried everything:

    Sandblasting - This method may be gentle on the stainless using walnut but it takes forever especially if you have a small air compressor. You don't want to breathe the dust and you'll get media everywhere in addition to having to buy the media.

    Soda or Dry Ice blasting - haven't tried it to comment.

    Air sanding - Same as sandblasting where it takes forever, you burn through sanding disks quickly and again if you have a small compressor it will take even longer. Also hard to hit contours but luckily the DeLorean doesn't have many.

    So the best and fastest method I found, I start with Aircraft Remover which again as you know is now garbage since they took away methylene chloride but it at least still softens up the paint for the next process. I then use a 40 grit abrasive drum on a SCT from Eastwood - links below. I have NOT tried this grit on stainless but it has not chewed up any metal I've ground the paint off of. You don't want to leave it in one place or you'll heat up and risk warping the metal. I would get a damaged stainless fender or really anything stainless, and try it on there before you take it to your car. I'd also start with drums that are higher grit and work my way lower to see what works best with the stainless and paint you're getting rid of. As an added bonus, you can put a grain in the stainless with this tool (I think I used a 240 polishing drum). Keep in mind the links below are only examples. If you want to pay half the price, there are versions of this tool on Amazon. The drums are also half price on Amazon compared to Eastwood so I always buy those on Amazon.


    Tool:
    https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html

    Drum:
    https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-co...h-40-grit.html
    -----Dan B.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    8,073

    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Expect to regrain the car. The first step to painting the car was to use a random orbital sander to roughen the surface to get the paint to stick. Many cars were painted because one panel was damaged and then repaired by using plastic filler. That panel will have to be properly repaired and regrained. Once you regrain one panel the rest of the car will look bad so one-by-one, you will have to do every panel. A big job, especially since the car was painted TWICE! Using chemicals or blasting is very messy but effective. Sanding is the best way. You can control it and it is easier to contain the mess. Regraining is just a form of sanding it so once you get the paint off you just continue sanding but doing it all in the proper direction to regrain the surface. Mask the fascias and glass so you don't damage them.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Apr 2013

    Location:  Warwickshire UK

    Posts:    3

    My VIN:    10855

    I've just finished getting mine back to stainless. I used peelaway 7, takes longer as you just paste on the stripper and leave it a day or so to do its work, but after this the vast majority of paint comes straight off. It took about an hour per panel to strip. Also it doesn't smell or burn like the other paint strippers.

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,576

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    Has anyone ever tried a heat gun? That might bubble the paint enough to really facilitate scraping it off. I don't know if it could warp anything (other than the facias) or impact the fiberglass body......
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date:  Apr 2017

    Location:  Madison, WI

    Posts:    56

    My VIN:    02530

    Black and Red Paint Removal From Stainless

    https://youtu.be/GzsoFFD9c9M

    Here is my YouTube video of my removal process. It was a long process but definitely worth it in the end. The chemical stripper does work you just have to really load it on. Most of this car was skimmed with body filler and the stripper still was able to soften it up enough to get thru it eventually. The jams were the easy part in all honesty. I did it one panel at a time and of course had to do a full regrain when I was done.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Kevin 02530; 06-04-2021 at 11:54 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Ras12's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2012

    Location:  New England

    Posts:    324

    My VIN:    10350 & 2083 SEARCHING FOR VIN#16664

    Club(s):   (DMCNE)

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin 02530 View Post
    https://youtu.be/GzsoFFD9c9M

    Here is my YouTube video of my removal process. It was a long process but definitely worth it in the end. The chemical stripper does work you just have to really load it on. Most of this car was skimmed with body filler and the stripper still was able to soften it up enough to get thru it eventually. The jams were the easy part in all honesty. I did it one panel at a time and of course had to do a full regrain when I was done.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Great informative video. Thank you. I did not put on two (2) coats and only let it sit for 30 mins so I am going to try the two coats and let it sit longer this weekend and see what happens. Stay tuned.
    ---------------------------------
    SEARCHING FOR VIN #16664
    ---------------------------------

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •