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Thread: Broken tailing arm mounting bolt. How to replace?

  1. #11
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    I will assume you have a automatic. Which I can't help you. (No experince) I've replaced both bolts on my manual.
    Thank you for your wisdom. Why even bother commenting.

    This is tricky, there is a nut behind there as well. I would do this:

    -Continue removal, but entirely remove the trailing arm. The other bolt may break too, soak everything in penetrant as a first step. Including the broken bolt.
    -You can leave the rest of the suspension in place but there might be some prying to get the trailing arm out. You will also need to disconnect the brake line. Since you have ed's brakes the flex line may give you enough flexibility to keep it sealed.
    -Once everything is out of the way, try to remove the bolt from behind. There is a nut on the backside as a secondary measure, it might work in your favor. Do not take it all the way out, just enough to get it turning. From here you can get it the rest of the way out with a dremel and an easy out.
    -If it does not spin and or there is not a nut on the backside you will need to drill it out. You will need a right angle drill, a cut down drill bit and lots of patience (I know you have this)

    This wont be fun but you are capable. Once again use lots of penetrant before hand.

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  2. #12
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHO1DMC View Post
    If you had access to a welder you could weld a nut on. If you don't well I don't either. I would than try to use apoxy that bonds metal and try and glue one on. Last resort drill it and use a easy out.


    I have no more ideas.
    Dave B.
    Since the base material (frame) is also steel welding a nut on will cause more trouble.

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    Since the base material (frame) is also steel welding a nut on will cause more trouble.
    This is a common practice. Everything would have to be removed. Than hoping there are a few threads to play with you put a nut on those threads. Than than weld the back side of the nut. The heat would also help break the threads loose.

    Like I said it's a idea.
    Dave B.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    Since the base material (frame) is also steel welding a nut on will cause more trouble.
    Thankyou for your wisdom when you obviously don't know shit about what your talking about. Welding a nut on a broken stud is done all the time. (Regardless of the base metal.) Why do you even bother commenting?

  5. #15
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    I know it is done commonly, and I have done it myself. but I am recommending against it for Joe. We have worked together in the past and I know his strengths and the tools he has available. You guys are very crabby today.
    Furthermore you can see there is a nyloc nut on the backside already, there is no need to weld on a nut as one is already present.

    Maybe you should worry about fixing your own car Helirich and getting home instead of commenting on a forum.

    Sincerely,

    Josh "don't know shit" Schattenkirk
    Last edited by Josh; 06-14-2021 at 07:52 PM.

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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    I know it is done commonly, and I have done it myself. but I am recommending against it for Joe. We have worked together in the past and I know his strengths and the tools he has available. You guys are very crabby today.
    Furthermore you can see there is a nyloc nut on the backside already, there is no need to weld on a nut as one is already present.

    Maybe you should worry about fixing your own car Helirich and getting home instead of commenting on a forum.

    Sincerely,

    Josh "don't know shit" Schattenkirk
    Let me get this straight.
    You knew it is done commonly and you decided to lie. You also know Joe and you decided that he doesn't have the talent to do it. Since you obviously are the supreme authority, he shouldn't even practice on scrap piece to see if it's a possibility. We're crabby because we disagree with you, even when you're lying.

    Furthermore, he shouldn't weld a nut on because there's a nylock on the other side. Did you possibly consider the reason to weld a nut on is to make a bolt head so he can remove the nylock? Not sure what you're experince is, but I found that the bolt can only be removed/installed from one side. So the nylock is no help to him right now.

    So I should stop posting if my car has anything wrong with it? Why didn't you stop posting when you're car was broke for months? In fact, some might ask, why are you selling parts to convert others cars when yours is broke from your modifications? Maybe you should test stuff before selling it to others.

  7. #17
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  8. #18
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    Anyway...

    I'm waiting for some new wrenches to arrive that will hopefully let me get a better grip on the nylock. I also can't find my needle nose vice grips (in case the wrenches fail to work for some reason), so I'm getting those, too. In the meantime, I've sprayed everything down with penetrant.

    For welding on a nut to replace the broken bolt head, I have not done such a thing before, but now that I have electric welding gear now (a simple wire-fed MIG-style non-gas welder) I'm willing to try. I didn't realize that when doing this you try to have a bit of the bolt sticking out of the hole still so that you can weld the nut in place, though. That makes sense, since it makes it less likely to accidentally weld the bolt to the frame. Of course, mine is snapped flush. But once I (hopefully) get the nylock off, I can spin the bolt shaft out a bit and try to get a nut on the end and tack weld it to spin it out the rest of the way, or just spin it out by hand if its loose enough.

    I would definitely not try this with my old oxyfuel gear. And while liquifying the bolt is tempting, I'd probably just weld the plate to frame, ruin the bushing, and make it impossible to run a new bolt through, so I won't be doing that.

    I also thought of hitting it with a torch to heat it up and break it loose (if it winds up being stuck, that is; still haven't gotten a wrench on the nylock), but I'm afraid of damaging the bushing with the heat from the torch.

    The other (frontmost) bolt on the bushing mount is in very good shape, and still shiny. The broken (rearmost) one was rusty, so I just thought it was stuck and didn't realize the jam nut was there. I'd prefer not to remove the good bolt as well, as I can't even see the nut with the automatic transmission in the way. The jam nut on the bolt I broke is visible and sort of accessible from both sides of the frame, so if I had to break one, it seems I chose the "easy" one.

    I'd also prefer not to completely remove the trailing arm (meaning, detaching it from the hub carrier), since I don't want to have to bleed the brake system again (I just did it two months ago). I'm hoping that pulling it off the TAB will give me enough clearance to get access enough to the head side of what's left of the bolt, and better access to reach the nylock behind it. But it may come to that if it seems like I'm going to damage the brake line or I can't get the arm far enough out of the way with it still attached.

    At worst, I've ordered a cheap air chisel that I'll probably only ever use this once for use with my very basic air compressor. I tend to favor electric tools, but the air chisel was $25 and a demolition hammer (the closest thing I could find to "electric air chisel") is $200, so for one use I'll got the chisel. This is as a last resort, if all else fails. Then I'll just put a nut and a nylock on the back of the new bolt and call it a day.

    Thanks everyone

    -- Joe

  9. #19
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Let me get this straight.
    You knew it is done commonly and you decided to lie. You also know Joe and you decided that he doesn't have the talent to do it. Since you obviously are the supreme authority, he shouldn't even practice on scrap piece to see if it's a possibility. We're crabby because we disagree with you, even when you're lying.

    Furthermore, he shouldn't weld a nut on because there's a nylock on the other side. Did you possibly consider the reason to weld a nut on is to make a bolt head so he can remove the nylock? Not sure what you're experince is, but I found that the bolt can only be removed/installed from one side. So the nylock is no help to him right now.

    So I should stop posting if my car has anything wrong with it? Why didn't you stop posting when you're car was broke for months? In fact, some might ask, why are you selling parts to convert others cars when yours is broke from your modifications? Maybe you should test stuff before selling it to others.

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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    For welding on a nut to replace the broken bolt head, I have not done such a thing before, but now that I have electric welding gear now (a simple wire-fed MIG-style non-gas welder) I'm willing to try. I didn't realize that when doing this you try to have a bit of the bolt sticking out of the hole still so that you can weld the nut in place, though. That makes sense, since it makes it less likely to accidentally weld the bolt to the frame. Of course, mine is snapped flush. But once I (hopefully) get the nylock off, I can spin the bolt shaft out a bit and try to get a nut on the end and tack weld it to spin it out the rest of the way, or just spin it out by hand if its loose enough.

    -- Joe
    It would be nice to have it sticking out, but that is rarely the case. I've seen it done where the bolt was broke off under flush. I held a nut with a pair of vicegrips while my friend welded up the center. I remember saying "congratulations, you got it to stick, but no way your going to unthread that." He sure chuckled as he removed it.

    In your case, it might be that the tab is slightly bent. (I've heard that happens sometimes) If so, it will be extremely difficult to remove. Let's all hope that's not the case. As I said earlier, practice on a scrap nut/bolt.

    Keep us posted.

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