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Thread: 1005 Restoration

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    Finally got the rear inner panels off. The rear speakers, as usual, are trashed. Also, endless dead spiders. The bolsters on these pieces are of course loose too (as per the early VIN design), so I'm drilling out the rivets (and cleaning all the dust inside), and will reattach with glue and small bolts. Having removed these also lets me move the speaker wire to the center console instead of running along the floor with failing duct tape.

    The center console is almost ready to go back in - I did end up painting the rubber top piece - this wasn't the best solution, but it looked really gnarly with rust peeking through, and wasn't at all pleasant to look at. The brackets which hold the shifter had loose rivets, so I drilled those out and also replaced with small bolts. Also epoxied the cross plastic piece.

    I have removed the hood, and will take next week for a PDR guy to look at. Other panels may eventually have to come off, but hood is by far the worst. Also slowly prepping the trunk for paint - still a lot of goo to remove, but did remove the windshield grill, which was broken in 2 large pieces. Turned out a small broken grill piece was hanging out underneath.

    The roofbox - it turns out the PO had done an amazing job with the DPI roofbox, so one less thing, although I am still searching for a missing clip on the rear of the T-Panel (1 of 4) - anyone?

    Driver's side seatbelt is slightly frayed; I'm probably going to have to pay up for a replacement one before the car has a chance of passing inspection.

    DPI order came in, so hopefully can now assemble the steering (cleaned up the splines and needed new bushing), and reattach the ignition. Also replace the locking gas cap which had a very poor fit with a regular one (I don't have the gas flap hood anyway).

    100 other things I've forgotten.

  2. #12
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    6,175

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by MrChocky View Post
    Also replace the locking gas cap which had a very poor fit with a regular one (I don't have the gas flap hood anyway).
    If not OEM, make sure it is non-vented.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    If not OEM, make sure it is non-vented.
    Yes, it's the boring black one from DGo. I was gonna get the stainless one (same price), but the look didn't work for me.

    It's this nickel and dime stuff that adds up during a restoration even if you have all the major components covered.

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,234

    Pics would be nice. My rear speakers don't work. Actually, they make distorted noise. I have them turned off for now, but I'll have to replace them eventually.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    Took out the steering column and cleaning all the splines with a needle file. Finally reassembled the steering (new bushing too), mainly so I can reconnect the ignition and peripherals and do
    some electrical testing.

    The operation of the windows is rough, to say the least - they do have new DPI regulators, but the alignment is bad, so that's on the list. The solenoids look OKish, but I have some in
    better condition, so I'll probably put those in.

    Still slowly repairing the internal panels and whatnot. I drilled out the rivets on the rear internal panels for the bolsters (they are two parts on early cars of course), which had come loose
    from the plastic. Will probably replace with small bolts and washers. The driver side does have large hole drilled in it (I guess for accessing the catch), so debating what to do about that - it one were really really careful
    it might be possible to do a graft from under the bolster section.

    Still cleaning the trunk for eventual painting - but that's very boring, so going slowly. I painted the rear panel grills with SEM trim black - first time using that, and it came out OK. Also painted the front
    spoiler, and working still on fixing the fascias (see my commentary on the sanding fascia thread).

    I still need to rotate the otterstat, but the hoses are quite firmly on, and I'm not yet excited about making yet another coolant mess. But I want to do this before I run the engine again.

    Meanwhile, 6791 is starting to become needy again, and there's a handful of things I've been putting off like installing DM's LED dimmer, so I'll need to take a break on 1005 shortly.

    One thing in particular I need to do is change the TABs. I think they're in good condition on 6791, and I hadn't planned to do until the winter, but that's a manual, and on 1005 they
    aren't looking so hot, and that's an auto, which looks to be an royal PITA, so I want to do the easier one first.

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    PXL_20210801_162154810.jpg

    My determination to refresh every nut/bolt/screw I can reach has lead to a number of fights with rivnuts, so that's been taking some time. I have the panels off though, haven't yet taken them to be looked at by PDR guy.

    I have been cleaning up the wiring in the engine bay - obviously the PO did enough to "make it work", but it could be better. Still prepping the trunk for paint - the goo from around the novelty mounted windshield fluid container is incredibly laborious to remove, so that's going to be a while yet.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    Ugh. The further you get in, the more you realize there is to do. As usual, progress is made every day, sometimes I get a rash of things done, but usually it's very slow.

    I replaced the fuel lines on the pump easily enough, but the accumulator lines are a different story; still trying to get the ends of the fittings in the tight space,
    and I snapped two of the bolts holding the accumulator bracket in place, so have been trying to get a dremel in there.

    Meanwhile in the engine bay, I did replace the fuel lines for the frequency valve, but this started a whole lot of messing with the harness routing, and looking more closely
    at the vacuum lines. I did start replacing some original hose clamps, but it's clear the vacuum lines have seen better days, and I'll need to make a trip into the
    valley to change these and facilitate a better harness routing. Whist this an early VIN car, the rear harness is a newer NOS part purchased by the PO.

    Turns out the PoA didn't have its o-ring and cup either - they are in fact in the box of parts and not spares as I had first thought.

    Also found out there's a "spare" boot on the CV axle - apparently in good shape, and a missing bolt.

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,234

    Quote Originally Posted by MrChocky View Post

    Also found out there's a "spare" boot on the CV axle - apparently in good shape, and a missing bolt.
    I suppose if the working boot got a tear, you could cut it off and slide the spare in place. It's not all that hard to remove the axle, but I guess that depends on how busy you are.

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