With the connections on the Y-pipe done the intake could be installed.
A picture showing the wires on the passenger side of the engine.
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With the connections on the Y-pipe done the intake could be installed.
A picture showing the wires on the passenger side of the engine.
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We had a four pin weatherpack connector that we didn't know what it was for. I finally gave in and messaged Josh.
He said this connector goes to the throttle microswitches. He said that the automatic transmission cars have two microswitches and the standard has only one. He said look at the colors on your existing harness and match up to the same color wires on the new harness.
I bought special crimper for these type connectors but I still struggle with getting a good crimp. I have ordered a different crimper to try going forward.
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We continued installing the intake parts. These are pictures of me trying to figure out why these plastic rings are needed and how they actually work. I posted some questions on the FB technical group. I am hearing that these rings stop the W-pipe and the throttle assembly from pulling tight together thus pushing the rubber o-rings out of position.
I feel like maybe this is a design flaw. Also I don't know how the disk is not falling down behind the rubber orings during assembly.
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The last thing I did was install this plate. I bought a new stainless one from D-Ind. The new one was completely flat. So I bent it to match the old one.
I also messaged Josh about this. He said that if you are using stock plug wires it stays straight if not stock bent or something like that. I may have it backwards.
I bolted it up. It doesn't seem right to me. Maybe it will make sense later.
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Forgot how tight things get in and around this engine compartment. There is a lot going on.
The temptation is always there to simplify things by switching to a carburetor or even EFI. A mechanical fuel injection system has a lot of pieces. A lot to go wrong. I couldn't imagine adding turbo or twin turbo also. What a nightmare to work on that would be.
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Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,161
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Refer to this parts diagram.
Step 1 - drop 1 each of the 2 backup rings (Item 53) into each tube of the butterfly assembly. No lube or adhesive.
Step 2 - lightly lube each of the O-rings (Item 54) - slip one of the O-rings over each male nozzle/pipe in the middle of the W-pipe
Each backup rings fit into a recess in the butterfly assembly.
If the backup rings are too large to fit into the first recess at the end the butterfly call your vendor (in the photo the ring looks larger than it should be - which would lead to your possible confusion). It should be a loose fit, not quite an interference fit, but almost.
The design might look like a compromise but it works nicely as long as the right parts are assembled in the correct order. Don't add extra O-rings or skip the backup rings or use any special sealants/adhesives. For a while I think the backup rings were NLA which led to some owners getting creative in this area.
Originally Posted by SupercoolBill
We continued installing the intake parts. These are pictures of me trying to figure out why these plastic rings are needed and how they actually work. I posted some questions on the FB technical group. I am hearing that these rings stop the W-pipe and the throttle assembly from pulling tight together thus pushing the rubber o-rings out of position.
I feel like maybe this is a design flaw. Also I don't know how the disk is not falling down behind the rubber orings during assembly.
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,161
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Further info for your question about the fitting of the plastic backup rings between the butterfly and the W-pipe:
Not sure whether the rings in your photos were originals from your teardown or came from somewhere else.
I have one of the original backup rings here - compare dimensions of yours to these dims:
OD = 55mm
ID = 51mm
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Posts: 1,262
Rich I thought the same thing but they are much too large to fit inside the female end.
I thought the same as you. Even though I got them from a reputable vendor (Delorean NW) maybe they are wrong but then I came across what I can only assume is one of my original ones and it was the same dimensions when laid on top.
Also after some searching online Tam was reading somewhere online that someone was saying that if done correctly the two parts won't pull tight together. The plastic rings will be spacing the two pieces apart slightly.
So....I don't know who's right and who's wrong.
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Getting caught up on posts. We worked on the car from 5:30P to 9:30P last night and the night before. The focus was on the electrical in the relay/fuse compartment.
I picked up some items that I thought I might need for repairing chewed wires.
I wanted to find a way to pull the wiring harness up out of the fuse/relay area.
I stripped the carpet and was able to remove the center plywood section.
I removed the netting
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Found a glass fuse. Not sure why since this car doesn't take glass fuses as far as I know.
Taking things apart. The door lock module is going to stay removed for now. I don't want to get trapped in the car.
Honey Dippers tape case...no cassette inside.
Grossness
The collection from in the electrical box.
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