Posts: 1,261
We keep getting asked about the car so we are really feeling like we need to get something done on the car.
Last night we worked on the car for about four hours. It started out pretty rough. But eventually I got going while Tam kept the dogs from getting into everything. Our goal is to get the facias ready for body work.
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My original plan was to build aluminum plate framework behind the facia where the taillight nuts and license plate nuts go but I have since decided to not do all that. The taillight nut locations aren't warped too much. Two of the license plate bezel nut locations are warped pretty bad from being over tightened.
I cut a piece of wood to put on the other side.
I installed some screws to pull the facia towards the wood. I slowly finished tightening as I heated the facia.
I'm going to just leave the block installed for a while.
Next I cleaned up the studs that were original to the facia and put some oil on them for now so they wouldn't rust.
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Last edited by SupercoolBill; 03-27-2025 at 09:15 AM.
Posts: 1,261
Next I moved to the front facia. Our facia has sight eyebrow effect.
It had been so long since I worked on the car that I forgot exactly what the process was for fixing this issue so I wasted a bunch of time on my phone looking for write ups, pictures, and videos. The more I looked the more conflicted I was on what to do because I kept finding different ways to do it.
I finally just got after it.
I didn't use blocks, clamps, and heat to straighten the facia before installing the plates like many people do. I felt like this was a waste of time. What I did instead is heat the eyebrows, grab them by hand, push them past the point I wanted them at then let them go to a relaxed position.
I did this a couple times until it looked pretty straight.
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Last edited by SupercoolBill; 03-27-2025 at 09:16 AM.
Posts: 1,261
I cut two pieces of 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum flat bar around 16" long. I noticed they they didn't really tuck in as well as I wanted them to so shaved a bit off and beveled the edge that pushes into the facia.
Ideally the aluminum pieces really should have a slight curve to them but this should work well enough.
I roughed up the pieces with a low grit flapper disk on a grinder.
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I roughed up the facia with low grit sandpaper.
The tip on my sealer was clogged so I just took it off.
Squirted some on the bar then spread it evenly with nitrile gloves on. Set the bar in place and installed the clamps with a 2' long 2x4.
This morning I checked on the side that was cured and did the other side. I cleaned up these studs but I am thinking that maybe they don't actually receive any nuts. I'm saying this judging by how the threads on the studs look and the location that may be impossible to access on the car.
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Posts: 1,261
Here's a better picture of the finished product.
I did the other side yesterday.
The front and rear facias are ready to go to the body shop.
Anyone know the paint code for the silver and the bumper incase I end up having to paint the bumpers?
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Last edited by SupercoolBill; 03-28-2025 at 09:33 AM.
Location: SW FL
Posts: 925
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
~LXA~
Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,161
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Here is the latest DMC Classic take on fascia paint, including the silver paint code.
Note that most of the article is about painting their fiberglass replica fascias. That may mean they didn't list the flex agent that has long been part of the paint code since the OE urethane parts did flex, unlike the replicas.
They correctly state there's usually no need to paint the black sections of the fascias. The dulled black sections can be brought back to life by polishing as they specify. They do mention a black paint option for tougher situations although it's less durable than the unpainted urethane is. I had both of mine polished and buffed out about 15 years ago (originals with no black paint). They still look like new. I've seen many, many poor results with aging black fascia paint on these cars. Cracking, peeling, flaking ugliness.
They also mention the point below about the finish. Your VIN makes yours a later car (matte finish) although you can choose any finish you like. I assume this refers to the clearcoat.
"It is important to note that there were two distinct paint finishes used during production. "Early" cars (typically with gas flap hoods, and prior to about VIN 2500) have a high gloss finish, where the later cars have a matte finish."
Originally Posted by SupercoolBill
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Posts: 1,261
Thanks guys. I'll pass this info along to the body shop.
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Posts: 1,261
We worked on the car yesterday (Saturday) for 6 hours.
I removed the clamps from the front facia and removed the wooden block from the rear facia.
I pulled out the engine cover and rear louver to see if there was any prep work to do.
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