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Interesting, when I typed in the part number on their website it didn't recognize the number I put in. Maybe I typed it in wrong.Originally Posted by JETS 81 DMC
In the meantime, I posted on Facebook and got some leads for a better option. I think we are going to go with these vs. wrestling with the rubber boots.
Not as cheap as a rubber one but seems like the way to go.
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D-go stuff showed up today. I always get a kick out of their packaging.
Just when you think you are done buying stuff....
Isn't this cover supposed to have a clip or something on the bottom also?
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Location: SW FL
Posts: 933
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
I have a DGo coil cover and it's not the greatest. I may go with the stainless version in the future.
~LXA~
Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry
Posts: 1,299
Yeah I considered the stainless one but I felt it was overkill and also I want the engine to be the focal point with the other stuff just being the backdrop
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Location: SW FL
Posts: 933
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
I would consider paint or powder coat to keep it subtle but have the rigidity. Agreed on the focal point statement.
~LXA~
Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry
Posts: 1,299
Yeah that isn't a bad idea.
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It was one heck of a Monday...as they typically are but rather than go home and lick our wounds we decided to work on the car. We worked on it from 4 to 8.
Before we put the HVAC box back in I wanted to do some of the things that are hard/impossible to do with the HVAC system in place.
Tam installed the fronk cable through the tub with the new grommet.
While looking in a box marked "Fronk" I found a brand new fronk release cable WITH grommet and what looked to be the original grommet off the car.
The joys of having neurological (memory) issues. Lol.
I found just the right number of new black bolts and black washers in my fastener stock so we replaced the bolts and washers on the hood latch.
I used the spare cable to make an emergency release cable as suggested by Andy L.
I routed the washer fluid hose, fronk release cable and back up cable through the underside of the dash.
I re-routed them several times. I didn't want the wiper mechanism hitting on any of them but I also want them ran in a good way.
I clamped down the cable in the release handle.
Kind of a crude set up if you ask me.
I looped the back up cable up under the dash.
Tam installed two new SS hood bump stops and we called it a night.
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Forgot to include a picture of the fronk release installed.
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I impulse bought this headlight relay kit on my last order from D-go.
For some reason I thought that the description said that the original design didn't use a relay for the headlights, that all the current went through the headlight switch.
I thought "Geez yeah that's not good" so I bought it.
Now I wonder if I really need this. I would rather keep things simple if this isn't really needed. If there's already a relay for the lights then why do I need another relay. Isn't that redundant?
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Location: Leonardtown, MD
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My VIN: 03572
Yes our cars use two relays to power the headlights.
That relay kit is good when you still use incandescent bulbs in the running lights (also powers the dash lights). With LEDs it's not really needed.
Even if a switch is rated for the current, an incandescent bulb draws much more current when first switched on (cold). That can create a spark at the switch contacts and eventually result in higher contact resistance.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 05-21-2025 at 04:20 AM.
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Dave M vin 03572