Posts: 562
No holes. I pooled up degreaser in there and none bled through. Stopping any future corrosion but also sealing it from leaking incase it is so thin that it would have leaked in the future. Yes block rot is a fairly common issue on these engines. This is not a common fix as far as I know and I am sure I will catch some flack for doing it. Heat shouldn't be an issue as JB Weld is rated for over 500 degrees F.Originally Posted by Helirich
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Posts: 562
Yesterday I bought one more of the large tube kits. After work I filled in the last areas that I wanted to hit. Once again I am liking how this is coming out. I think I am also going to take it one step further and paint the valley with engine primer and paint.
The special sized boxes that I ordered came in so I boxed up my heads so I can get them mailed out to DMW. They look like a giant burrito.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Posts: 562
Since it looks like this stock engine rebuild is actually going to happen I worked on a list of parts for the engine. This ended up taking like 4 hours. I had to look through my boxes of what I already had, go through every page of the parts manual that shows anything related to the engine and make my own list with part numbers. I ended up with 7 pages of stuff.
I discovered that even though I paid for a full engine gasket/seal kit I am missing a bunch of seals. I am not sure if the kit I ordered didn't include them, I was supposed to get them and they didn't get added to my order, or I somehow lost or misplaced them. Regardless it is pretty frustrating when you thought you paid for one thing and discover you have to pay for some of it all over again.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Posts: 562
I spent a bunch of time ordering nuts, bolts, washers, and little trinkets last night. I ended up ordering them from D-go. For some reason I find their website to be the easiest/quickest to punch in part numbers and enter the quantity I want. And I had a LOT of part numbers. I like that every part has a picture or pictures of it so i can verify that I am order the right thing. I also like the fact that every fastener or fasteners that are one part number come in a little bag labeled with that part number. It make reassembling the car like a Lego set. I just follow the manual and grab the baggie with that part number on it. Big time saver especially with the wife working on this project with me. Also I always get my stuff ridiculously fast with no missing parts ever.
I will be ordering piston rings, cylendar sleeve gaskets (shims), cylendar holders, etc. From one (or more) of the US vendors.
By the way I found that the price of piston ring kits is all over the place. Anything from as low as $90 to as much as over $500!!
I did some asking around and was told that not all kits are created equal. So the $90 ones (which I have been told are made in China and not good) are out.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Posts: 562
Today was a good day. Well, it was another super stressful overwhelming day as a small business owner BUT parts showed up at my doorstep.
The used lower crankcase section that purchased showed up from CO. and a bunch of parts I ordered from D-Go in the UK showed up.
I know I have said this over and over but DANG! how the heck is D-Go taking my order, pulling my order, putting each part or batch of parts in little individual bags labeled WITH the part number, packaging it all, shipping it out, and getting it to my shop in 2.5 days!?!?! And the S&H is free! And it was ordered on a Sunday night. Amazing.
I bought basically every plug, nut, bolt, washer, sensor, sending unit, gasket, o-ring, etc for the engine. I have all the equipment necessary to restore my rusty old headlight mounts but I decided that for the price of new ones it isn't worth my time.
There are some more parts that are more critical which I will be ordering from a US vendor. Piston rings, cylendar base seals, etc.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Location: SW FL
Posts: 689
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
They are most likely pre-bagged and sitting in inventory ready to be picked for orders. Like you, I bought their headlights mounts and buckets and ended up powder coating the mounting. Glad to see they make/have them since I'm not aware of any other vendor offering new ones.
~LXA~
Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry
Posts: 562
Yeah I get that for some of the items but there were a lot of items like bolts, nuts, etc. That I had random counts of how many I needed.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Posts: 562
Tonight after work the wife cleaned up the engine part and started working on fixing up the seat rails.
Meanwhile I took my hand written list of parts I recently order and the actual parts and I went through every part one at a time. I also re-organized my parts for the project. I made separate boxes for many things such as air intake system, air mixture control, oil pan and baffle plate parts, etc.
I added a brief description to the tags on the bags of parts. Believe it or not this burned up about 4 hours.
I did let myself install one new part. A nice aluminum anodized magnet drain plug.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Posts: 562
Last night I dry blasted then wet blasted the engine block. I dry blasted the valley so the engine enamel would stick well to the JB Weld.
The left and right side, and the bell housing end of the block was really nasty and was taking forever. I could have made it look a lot nicer but decided it was getting too late and called it good at 7P because I knew I still had at least an hour of cleaning to do after.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Posts: 562
Next I hosed the block down with my soap foam gun and washed the block really well to get any remaining glass beads that didn't get rinse when I rinsed it in the vapor blaster.
I am really glad I decided to purchase and install the rubber plugs. They worked great for keep the blasting media from getting in everywhere. I am still planning on pulling all of the push-plugs out of the block to run brushes through and blow through every passageway though just to make sure nothing snuck through.
I'm not sure what they mean but there are numbers made into the engine in several places. Things that you never notice on a nasty dirty engine.
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Last edited by SupercoolBill; 09-22-2023 at 04:56 PM.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
