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Thread: What to use on exterior black trim?

  1. #1
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    What to use on exterior black trim?

    I've looked through several threads, but not seeing much of a unanimous decision on what to use on the black trim pieces. I'll be painting the sunshade louvre and I read not to use anything on it other than the trim paint, but I want to use something on the rest of the pieces.

    I saw Meguiar's Back-to-Black mentioned, but I'm not finding it anywhere....only Mothers Back-to-Black (what's the vote on that stuff?)

    What does everyone else use?


    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member skill's Avatar
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    Hey Rich,

    From what I've read in the forum (and thank you all for the contribution on this information) , and anyone feel free to correct me, here's what I've seen that gives the best results IMO for the sunshade louvre, not sure on other trim parts;

    ⌐ SEM 38373 SEM SOLVE (Wax & Grease Remover) 14.7oz spray can

    ⌐ BULLDOG ADHESION PROMOTER 15oz spray can.

    ⌐ SEM 39143 TRIM BLACK 15.5oz spray can.
    Last edited by skill; 02-09-2014 at 08:52 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Thanks Brian,

    I'm looking for some type of cleaner/restorer to use on the exterior black pieces.

    When I paint the louvre, I'll be using the SEM trim stuff for sure...

  4. #4
    Senior Member skill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Thanks Brian,

    I'm looking for some type of cleaner/restorer to use on the exterior black pieces.

    When I paint the louvre, I'll be using the SEM trim stuff for sure...
    np bud!

    Check Alex's site, I was on this site earlier (very nice step by step)! Look on what he used on the interior... awesome!

    btw; autobody paint & supply shops sell "degreasers and fish eye removal" products. You wipe it on and let dry before you spray/apply.

    LINK
    Last edited by skill; 02-09-2014 at 09:01 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skill View Post
    np bud!

    Check Alex's site, I was on this site earlier (very nice step by step)! Look on what he used on the interior... awesome!

    btw; autobody paint & supply shops sell "degreasers and fish eye removal" products. You wipe it on and let dry before you spray/apply.

    LINK
    VERY nice site....we are very fortunate there are so many resources.

  6. #6
    Senior Member skill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    VERY nice site....we are very fortunate there are so many resources.
    I whole-heartily agree, w/o this site where would we be? I'm like yourself in accord and very appreciative of this community and support! A+ Livin' the Dream!
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  7. #7
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    I think he means what dressing to use on the pieces. This can go a number of different ways and really it depends on the condition of your parts. It also should be noted that over the years many cars' parts have been painted by P.O.'s to cover up faded plastic and deteriorated rubber and urethane. For now lets assume that nothing has been painted and everything that's black is factory unpainted:

    The black "bumpers" on the fascias can actually be compounded and waxed with car wax/rubbing compound or plastic polish. The mirrors, rub strips, side vents, jambs, and lower spoiler can be treated with rubber dressing if they are not too bad. You mentioned "Back to black" and it will work, but only for a short time. If the parts are too oxidized or faded, any dressing is only a temporary solution and will have to be re-applied every so often.

    Now a lot of cars got the spray bomb treatment over the years using cheap Walmart paint or similar. If yours has fallen victim then a few different steps can be taken.

    Bumper paint can be sanded off and polished or you may decide to just freshen them up with a new coat of paint. If the other pieces (mirrors, jambs, vents) have been painted then sanding off will not be a option as the rough texture will be lost. You might be able to chemically strip the paint off but much of this stripper will almost certainly leave the parts dried, chalked out white and they will have to be painted again anyway.

    Other parts that were factory painted such as the trim strip over the windshield and the rear louvers can simply be re painted using proper prep techniques and good paint.

    I am lucky to have a remaned car so all of those "backyard restorations" that happen over the lifespan of a car like this have been erased. All I use is a blue solvent based dressing that I get from one of my dealerships' vendors. (18 bucks a gallon)....but again, my parts are mint NOS so they don't need much to keep them up to par.
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    Be very careful using any "back to black" type product on surfaces you ever intend to paint. Most of them make it almost impossible for paint to stick properly until the chemicals fully release from the material - and that takes a long time. Some paint shops even ask if a product like that has been used in the past and will not touch it if so. That being said, the original "Back to Black" (UV activated) has worked wonders in giving the bumpers and trim a deep/rich black look. It also looks great on other black surfaces on the car and lasts a long time. At least that has been my experience.

    I also love a product called "Twinkle" for the stainless. It keeps it looking fingerprint free and will not attract dirt like some other products. Cuts through grime as well and safe if over sprayed on paint.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    The mirrors, rub strips, side vents, jambs, and lower spoiler can be treated with rubber dressing if they are not too bad. You mentioned "Back to black" and it will work, but only for a short time. If the parts are too oxidized or faded, any dressing is only a temporary solution and will have to be re-applied every so often.

    These are the pieces I'm talking about, nothing has been painted and everything is in good shape. I'm expecting to re-apply periodically, just want to keep the black stuff looking nice.

    Do you have a recommendation for what to use?

    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kajcienski View Post
    Be very careful using any "back to black" type product on surfaces you ever intend to paint. Most of them make it almost impossible for paint to stick properly until the chemicals fully release from the material - and that takes a long time. Some paint shops even ask if a product like that has been used in the past and will not touch it if so.

    Yup, very true. I color coded the black mirrors, grill, and bumper skirt on a truck. Even though dressing was never put on it, the plastic was still fresh so there was plenty of oils in the plastic itself. I promised the owner the paint would not hold but the manager insisted that I do it, and I tried EVERYTHING to keep it in place. Heavy stripper, cleaning, adhesion promoter. I actually convinced myself that with this much effort, it just may work...for a year of so at least. It lasted about 2 weeks and came off in sheets.
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