Old injury, but I thought I'd take care of it now that the mixture unit is out of the car and I'm waiting for my induction heater:
DSC_0506.jpg
How do I get this miserable little bugger out?
Location: Denmark
Posts: 244
My VIN: 10207
Old injury, but I thought I'd take care of it now that the mixture unit is out of the car and I'm waiting for my induction heater:
DSC_0506.jpg
How do I get this miserable little bugger out?
Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.
Posts: 72
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I have the same issue and reluctant to use easy out.
Going to try a different method - will let you know if it works...
Posts: 255
Us a sharp drill bit as the piece is brass (obviously) and use oil as you drill a hole in its center. Then slowly use an easy out, those brass bolts have an oring at the end of them that seals it which is why they are tough to get out, they are not corroded in. Don't use an induction heater on it.Originally Posted by DrWin
I used an easy out on mine as the PO tried to adjust it and snapped it (it was also backed out a bit so it had to come out). Turning the easy out slowly extracted it cleanly with no issues, for me.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
I don't think an induction heater would work on brass or aluminum. Probably not even stainless steel.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
An induction heater (or any kind of heat or spray) is not necessary because it is not stuck because of corrosion. All you need is some way to mechanically attach to it. Either try cutting a slot in it with a die grinder or Dremel to use a screwdriver or drilling into it to use an Ezy-Out or a reverse (left hand) drill or even drill and tap it and stick a bolt in it. As mentioned, it is hard to turn because of an "O" ring.
David Teitelbaum
Posts: 447
Induction heaters will work on any metal that conducts electricity. There is an often heard misconception that induction heaters will only work on metal that can be magnetized. Not the case, any metal that can conduct electrical current can be heated. However, metals that have lower electrical resistance are more difficult to heat with induction. So copper, aluminum, and brass which present a lower resistance to electric current take longer for an induction heater to heat up. Steel has a higher resistance and will heat relatively quickly. Dave is right that aluminum or brass will not heat up as easily as steel. It will take longer for the induction heater to work with those materials. That's the reason cast iron pans are preferred for an induction stovetop.
No, I'm no induction heater expert. I was (and still am) considering getting an induction heater. I spent hours down the google rabbit-hole looking into this.
Ron
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,177
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Since, as D:01:13 says, they are not used on a DeLorean, why not use epoxy...??
Location: Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111
Posts: 886
My VIN: 2691
I thought those were the bolts we're supposed to
leave tight. opened they will give you vacuum leaks....?
Location: Denmark
Posts: 244
My VIN: 10207
Victory!
Used a diamond bur to cut a slot in the screw, and used a straight/flat screwdriver to screw it out. Relatively easy.
DSC_0512.jpg
Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.
Posts: 72
20220125_160459.jpgUsed a diamond bur to cut a slot in the screw, and used a straight/flat screwdriver to screw it out. Relatively easy.
DSC_0512.jpg
I tried to secure a hex nut but that didn't work, but your suggestion did! Thanks.
Robert
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Dave M vin 03572