Hello everyone I can't start my carb engine. The throttle is very hard (impossible) to press and I noticed this snapped wire. anyone has a clue what it is?
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Hello everyone I can't start my carb engine. The throttle is very hard (impossible) to press and I noticed this snapped wire. anyone has a clue what it is?
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I believe that's a vacuum wire for the mode switch. I could be wrong about the purpose but I don't think it would affect your jammed throttle.
Try moving the spool by hand, if it moves but you can see the cable binding, you may have a frayed cable. Also look for free operation of the linkage at the metering unit.
Edit: Oh hell, just realized you are carbed.
Posts: 1,254
That āZā in the linkage looks like trouble to me. Has it worked before? I think you could move the spool so it has a straight shot.
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,087
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
As asked in the previous post - has the linkage worked OK in the past?
That's an interesting custom link between the throttle spool and the carb. You could start your hunt for throttle lockup by pulling the linkage ball connector off of the carb and then rotating the throttle link at the carb to make sure the throttle butterflies or carb shaft aren't somehow frozen in place. With it still disconnected press the accel pedal to see if the linkage works freely. Work your way from there.
Also be sure the flat sheet metal section of the custom link isn't jammed against the runner on the intake manifold before you disconnect it. Hard to see if there's good clearance between those parts. I assume that link is still set up to push (not pull) the throttle open.
The "wire" that's broken in the first photo is the semi-rigid vac hose from the A/C mode switch to the hot water valve that's behind the intake manifold a bit to the right of center. Not a cause of hard throttle, as noted above, but in need of repair soon:
- Splice the break with a short section of rubber tubing between the cut ends because that's currently a small vacuum leak and the hot water valve won't operate in MAX A/C mode
- Be sure the other end of the hose (the right end of it) is properly connected to the hot water valve for the same reasons
- Easiest short-term hack is to put a rubber end cap over the hose end on the left. No vac leak but no water valve action.
The second cable on the throttle spool (the cable through the right side hole the "Z" bracket) is to the automatic transmission. It's one potential source of a hangup. Disconnect it at the throttle spool for troubleshooting if the first test shows the lockup isn't at that custom link or at the carb itself.
If the carb tests OK and the transmission cable isn't the problem then you'll need to hunt between the pedal and the throttle spool with carb link and trans cable disconnected.
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Thank you all for your insights. Now I know what's the small hose for.
The custom Z bracket was made to push and has worked fine since I carbed the engine.
I'll do the tests you suggest with the linkage and the transmission cables to find out the cause.
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Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
Until you attach the throttle and kickdown more directly to the carb, you will not be addressing the underlying issue here.
It is my opinion you should be removing the stock throttle spool, and the "fabricated" linkage
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
You may have to lubricate the throttle cable to the pedal per the recall. The throttle spool may also have to be disassembled and lubricated, the old grease turns into glue and can make it hard to move.
David Teitelbaum
Thank you David and josh.
I'll take note of your recommendations.
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**update.
At the end it seems to be an extreme fatigue on the Z bracket, and tends to loose shape with the tension applied to it. Time to reinforce it or reconfigure a new one.
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