Does anyone have any tips on how to create a proper seal each end of the auto trans hose connections (both delivery and return hoses)? I have some leaking I was hoping to clear up (Both auto trans hoses are brand new). Thank you in advance.
Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Posts: 14
My VIN: 1184
Does anyone have any tips on how to create a proper seal each end of the auto trans hose connections (both delivery and return hoses)? I have some leaking I was hoping to clear up (Both auto trans hoses are brand new). Thank you in advance.
Location: Denmark
Posts: 244
My VIN: 10207
Copper washers - there is a copper washer of a special size, that isn’t on the parts diagram, that goes on those pipes. You need 4 of those IIRC. Got those?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.
Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Posts: 14
My VIN: 1184
Originally Posted by DrWin
Thank you. I do not. Is there a particular link where those can purchased? Or does a traditional parts store sell those?
Location: Denmark
Posts: 244
My VIN: 10207
Just checked my notes. Parts number is 103513A - I got mine from deloreango.com.
I think there’s actually use for more than four. IIRC the same washer fits the other side of the small adaptors between the automatic transmission coolant hoses and the transmission itself. If I may recommend; get 10 in the first go - then you wont end up lacking one or two b/c you accidentally unscrew one or two of the adaptors.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Last edited by DrWin; 05-09-2022 at 07:59 AM. Reason: Spelling
Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
When you are trying to get the end of the hose that connects to the cooler together, pay close attention to the two ends being aligned well with no tension trying to pull it over to one side. If you are holding on to the hose with one hand, and have the end nice and even with the cooler connection, you want to be able to rotate the connector threads easily by hand. If the hose end connector is pushing out against the inside side of the threaded coupler, it's putting tension on the joint and is more likely to leak. It's a tight spot to work in and pain in the butt getting it right, but they will go together well and not leak.
Also make sure you have the oil cooler bracket in place as that should help keep it in position without any extra weight or tension being placed on the hose connections.
IMG_1533.jpgIMG_1527.jpg
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 319
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
I replaced both of those lines because they were leaking. The one leading up to the transmission was a real PITA. The nut on the transmission side would not spin on its own, and there was no room to spin the whole line off, so I ended up cutting it off with a tiny hack saw in the most uncomfortable position possible. Bloody knuckles and all. I consider that job worse than changing out the fuel accumulator.
IMG_20200529_150300.jpg
Reply With Quote
