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Thread: Lambda system 0 dwell and no buzzing

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2020

    Location:  Stockholm

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    My VIN:    3752

    Lambda system 0 dwell and no buzzing

    My car is not running right. Frequency valve is only buzzing if I press the full throttle switch. Dwell meter is reading 0 otherwise. Idle is high. Does this indicate a bad oxygen sensor? Any easy diagnostic? I was going to unplug the sensor, but where on earth is that connector? Sorry for newbie questions 😀

  2. #2
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    So the oxygen sensor is connected behind the back wheel where I can't really reach with the car on the ground.

  3. #3
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Location:  Olathe, KS

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    Yes, the connector is in the driver's side rear wheel well.

    Regarding the dwell, if it reads 0 on your meter (no activity) it sounds like you are not connecting the dwell up correctly, or there is no signal at all on the orange wire from the Lambda ECU. If the system is working and you disconnect the O2 sensor (lambda sensor), the dwell meter should read constant 22.5 degrees on the 8 cylinder scale.

    Make sure your dwell meter actually works, first, and you have it connected to a good ground and the orange wire that goes to the diagnostic plug.

    Also check to make sure the ground for the lambda system is connected to the engine, it's supposed to be attached to the passenger side of the intake manifold and is identified as a thin gauge black wire with some red heatshrink on it and it has a black plastic snap-in plug which is near the firewall behind the engine. Very common for it to get unplugged or someone forgot to attach the wire to the manifold after doing service work back there.

    Also check the Lambda relay in the relay compartment. Could be a bad relay or the spades have pushed the female connectors down into the receptacle making bad connections.

    Connector on frequency valve could be flakey but if you aren't getting a dwell reading, it could be that the lambda ECU isn't running reliably due to poor ground or poor connections which would of course affect FV operation.

    Also check the idle speed micro switch to make sure it is truly clicking in at idle and you get continuity between the two spades on the back when closed. This could be causing your high idle AND strange lambda readings. Another good test of the microswitch is to remove the inner plug on the idle ECU (the black box on the metal tray behind the driver seat) and find the black-green wire. That's coming from the idle microswitch. Set your meter to DC Volts and check between the positive battery post and the black green wire while the ignition is in Position II and you should see 12V if the switch is actually closed at idle. If it's reads 0 then you have a wiring problem at the switch or it's no good. Bad idle microswitch will mess up idle speed and lambda.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    If the dwell reads 0 then the ECU is bad or your meter is not reading correct. The minimum dwell the Lambda can set if about 10 deg. Now since you get a buzz pressing the WOT that says your lambda ECU and FV are getting powered.

    So even if your mixture is way off it still should not read 0 deg.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #5
    Junior Member
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    Yeah, when the WOT switch is pressed I get a buzz and a good reading on the dwell meter. So I am pretty confident the meter and relays etc are all working.

  6. #6
    Junior Member
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    Idle circuit tests good. Removing inner connector on idle ecu makes the engine go to 2000 rpm.

    I guess I need to fiddle with lambda ecu and see how I can test it.

  7. #7
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Location:  Olathe, KS

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nioreh View Post
    Yeah, when the WOT switch is pressed I get a buzz and a good reading on the dwell meter. So I am pretty confident the meter and relays etc are all working.
    Try the tests I told you about regarding the idle microswitch. Note that the microswitch has nothing to do with lambda but could be part of your high idle problem.

    The lambda relay and fuse 7 need to be looked at closely for the lambda issue, that is where the lambda system gets its power. If you have reliable power to the ECU (Green/yellow wire), the Lambda ECU could certainly be bad. The ground for the ECU goes through all the grounds on the rear bulkhead behind the passenger seat. Not common for all that stuff to get loose but it's worth a check anyway.
    Last edited by 82DMC12; 06-27-2022 at 11:33 AM.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  8. #8
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by Nioreh View Post
    Idle circuit tests good. Removing inner connector on idle ecu makes the engine go to 2000 rpm.

    I guess I need to fiddle with lambda ecu and see how I can test it.
    just edited my last post, check it out
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2020

    Location:  Stockholm

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    Thanks. Hopefully it's just a bad connection somewhere.

    Car runs OK-ish as is, but it is using a lot of fuel. Going on a pretty long trip next week, and would be nice to not burn extra in fuel at these prices 😀

  10. #10
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by Nioreh View Post
    Thanks. Hopefully it's just a bad connection somewhere.

    Car runs OK-ish as is, but it is using a lot of fuel. Going on a pretty long trip next week, and would be nice to not burn extra in fuel at these prices 😀
    Personally I wouldn't drive the car too far until you get all this sorted out. You don't want to foul up everything, do you? Just asking for trouble.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

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