This week I received new cups and springs for my inner tie rods from Rob Grady. This was my next project - set the pre-tension on the inner tie rods correctly since last time I I had the rack apart (about a year ago) I didn't realize there was a "trick" to setting it properly. When I tightened the two large silver nuts that keep the tie rod on, I had set it so there was no play in the rod, but turns out you actually have to turn it a few turns tighter than that. You actually can use a spring scale to set the correct tension, which is what I did this weekend.
The rack came out easy, considering I just installed a few months ago during the frame swap. U-joints were easy to slip apart and the rack came out no problem. This time I used a red paint pen and marked the pinon and first U-joint so I could attempt to keep the wheel straight when I was done.
I checked the pre-tension with my spring scale and there was essentially zero tension since the tie rod was fairly floppy and hanging down. it measured 400 grams.
Snipped the zip ties holding the passenger side boot on and slid the boot off the rack tube, draining as much gear oil as I could into a paint mixing measuring cup. I wanted to make sure I replaced about equal amount that comes out.
I drilled out the pin on the two nuts and backed everything apart so I could remove the inner tie rod, clean it up, and change out the cups and springs. On reassembly, I kept tightening, and then checking, the tension required to lift the tie rod from horizontal into an arc. My target was 2.25 to 2.5 kg which is about 5 lbs of tension as per Rob Grady. This means the spring is getting slightly compressed, and when I was satisfied with the tension, the tie rod would stay in place no matter where I set it. Fortunately on both sides, the pin holes for the nuts lined back up again so it was easy to drive new pins in and finish up.
Those who have done this rack removal job will understand when I say it took me at least 45 minutes of cussing to get the driver side rubber bushing oriented correctly and installed.
I was lucky enough to get the red paint matched up and my wheel is straight just as before - but now, there is zero play in the steering wheel and my rack feels nice and tight once again! Successful job and learning something new.
As for my alignment, logic suggests I have SLIGHTLY more toe-in now since both tie rods were tensioned inward. I will get the toe checked real quick at the alignment shop sometime in the next couple of weeks, then I can repaint the tie rod ends black so they don't get rusty.
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Pre-tension before servicing the tie rod - basically zero, just the weight of the rod end.
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Another view of checking the tension. I held the tube in place on the ground while lifting up on the tie rod with my other hand and checking the constant force needed to keep the tie rod moving in an upward arc. 2.25 to 2.5 kg is good tension.
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Originally Posted by 82DMC12
