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Thread: VIN 11596 Frame Swap - a rolling frame-off restoration

  1. #241
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2016

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    What's next? Well I have an improved rebuilt brake master cylinder I'm going to install as well as change the brake pads because I think they may have been fouled out from zinc paint getting on them.
    Where did you get the brake master from? Curious who sells the 'best' one on the market as I've heard bad things about reproduction units.
    ~LXA~
    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  2. #242
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,606

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by Timeless View Post
    Where did you get the brake master from? Curious who sells the 'best' one on the market as I've heard bad things about reproduction units.

    I had PJ Grady sleeve my brake master, clutch master, and clutch slave a LONG time ago. No problems with them until probably 15 years later my slave started to leak. While doing my frame-off I sent them all back out to get freshened up again. We had some issues finding seals for my Saab master cylinder (larger bore and 50/50 bias) but it finally all came together so I'm taking my spare repro master cylinder out and putting my Saab back in. I guess you can still find the Saab units on ebay if you need a core.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  3. #243
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,606

    My VIN:    11596

    Yesterday I got the brake updates done. I started by sucking out the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir with a mityvac. Then I removed the front calipers and old pads and hardware, then compressed each piston in with a C-clamp pushing against a paint stick on both sides so it won't mess up my finish on the calipers. I replaced the front pads, and then set about removing the old master cylinder.

    The master cylinder I've been using while waiting for my rebuild is a spare repro master cylinder that I bought for another owner while working on his car but he ended up not needing it. I kept it around "just in case" and I was glad to have it. However when I removed it from the booster I could see the inside of the booster was wet, in fact enough fluid was in the well that it ran down the booster and onto the fuel tank. Maybe I removed this thing not a moment too soon.

    I then set up the new cylinder with the reservoir installed in my vise and used a couple of old brake pipes cut up to direct the output back into the reservoir so I could manually bench bleed the cylinder. I've used these pipes for this a few times and they are getting kind of ratty. I had to use teflon tape to keep them from leaking or drawing air in but I was satisfied with the bleed job.

    I laid numerous old towels and rags under the booster area in case I spilled any fluid, and quickly installed the master cylinder, full of fluid.

    It was then that I found what I thought was a full 32 bottle of brake fluid was actually half used. Damn! I ended up driving out to a speed shop in Independence MO to pick up two cans of ATE 200 Dot 4 fluid.

    Once the master was installed I went to the rear brakes where I wanted to swap out some braided lines for SS pipe. I had to remove the calipers to do this so I ended up changing the pads and greased everything back there too. Once installed, I used a Motive power brake bleeder to flush all the lines out and refill with the ATE fluid. Even though I had no bubbles passing through the bleeders, the brake pedal still felt a bit soft, so I went old-school and zip tied my clear hose to the bleeder, put the other end into a mason jar submerged in an inch of brake fluid, opened the bleeder, and then pumped the brakes sharply a few times. I took video with my phone so I could see what happened and sure enough at each corner I got a bit more air out. Maybe the master still had an air pocket. Anyway, now the brake pedal is good and hard.

    All that's left is to bed in the brake pads.

    PXL_20240208_212052881.jpg





    Bench bleeding setup. I protect the finish on the master cylinder with paint stir sticks. I painted the master using VHT engine paint and then Duplicolor Clear ceramic. Baked in an oven at 200F for one hour.









    PXL_20240209_021049975.jpg







    Motive power bleeder hooked up. I don't fill the tank with fluid since I rarely use it. I just use it to compress the air in the reservoir and then I have to be careful that the reservoir doesn't empty as I go around to the calipers and bleed them out.












    PXL_20240209_023232776.jpg







    This makes it really easy to bleed the brakes. I keep the hose submerged in fluid. You can easily see the bubbles flowing through the tube so you know when you're done. Below is a video I took showing the additional bubbles I got out by doing the "one man bleeder" trick. Basically you just zip tie the hose to the bleeder so it doesn't fell off (and makes it air-tight), put the other end in a jar submerged in fluid, crack open the bleeder, then get in the car and pump the brakes. Push the brake pedal medium-hard to the floor, then slowly release. Repeat a few times and you'll surely get the rest of the air out, resulting in a nice hard brake pedal.













    https://youtube.com/shorts/wI65ls1Slxs
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  4. #244
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,606

    My VIN:    11596

    PXL_20240208_125928843.jpg


































































    This damn reproduction master cylinder (G1 version with DMC stamped on it) was leaking out the bore and into my booster. It was not dripping down the booster until I removed the cylinder. The outside of the piston and retaining clips were all wet with brake fluid. I quickly wiped this up and let it dry before installing the new master cylinder. Just another one of those situations where the original part is better than the new part, especially if you get it rebuilt with a brass sleeve and better seals.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  5. #245
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,606

    My VIN:    11596

    420911116_1136879817730978_1605456915672236710_n.jpg

































































    Since Castrol GT-LMA and even Castrol Synthetic Dot 4 seem to be NLA, I decided to use ATE 200 Dot 4. This fluid is well-known in the BMW and Audi service shops and have also been recommended to me by a couple of vendors (well one of them might be an ex-vendor...). It can be hard to find but you can order it online or maybe find it at an import speed shop like I did.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  6. #246
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,606

    My VIN:    11596

    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

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