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Thread: AC hose replacement help.

  1. #1
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    AC hose replacement help.

    I have the DPI replacement hose kit. I have removed the old accumulator and all the old hoses are disconnected. Tomorrow I will flush the condenser and the evaporator separately once I'm able to remove the orifice tube. My question is, how do you run the new hoses? Push them from the engine compartment? Or try to couple the new hoses to the old and pull it through? Should the rear be up on ramps?
    Thanks for any tips, that will help me get as much done as I can over the weekend, until I hear back from Josh.

  2. #2
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    I capped the new hoses to keep debris out, lopped the fittings off of the old hoses, taped them together and pulled the new ones through using the old ones. Beware of zip ties along the way. Not much to it.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    I capped the new hoses to keep debris out, lopped the fittings off of the old hoses, taped them together and pulled the new ones through using the old ones. Beware of zip ties along the way. Not much to it.
    Did you pull the old hoses from the engine bay, back, or pull from the front?
    Thanks for the help

  4. #4
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    It was 2016 and I don't quite recall. A helper to help un-bind around corners could be helpful but I did it singlehandedly. The new hoses are minuscule compared to the originals, lots of room to work.

    It's really pretty simple, do you have a specific concern?
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    It was 2016 and I don't quite recall. A helper to help un-bind around corners could be helpful but I did it singlehandedly. The new hoses are minuscule compared to the originals, lots of room to work.


    It's really pretty simple, do you have a specific concern?
    I'm going to flush the condenser today, then route the new hoses. A a couple of tests tug on the suction hose wasn't budging it at all.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L3V3L1 View Post
    I'm going to flush the condenser today, then route the new hoses. A a couple of tests tug on the suction hose wasn't budging it at all.
    The hoses have some tie wraps holding them onto the frame. You will have to find those and cut them or pull with a few hundred pounds to break them.

    I don't think you will have any problem feeding the new hoses threw that short run since they don't have any fitting on them. I would tape up the end so you don't push any junk into the hose.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #7
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    I would flush (or at least blow out with compressed air) the new hoses too. Without knowing their storage history you don't want to chance something like a dead spider entering the system.

    Ensure your flush solvent leave no residue. If you do flush the hoses, blow them out with air afterwards.
    Most of the online advice you will see regarding flushing AC systems is from the usual standpoint that all of the lines are very short. On our cars its possible to create fluid traps. A slow bleed of compressed air into the lines will help evaporate all of the solvent. A hard vacuum would probably get rid of it as well but something something pound of prevention.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  8. #8
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    If your flush is R-11 there should be no residue. Be sure to zip-tie the hose where it goes by the steering gear well or it will get damaged by the U-joint. Make sure there is no stress on the condenser and the hose is not twisted. Never kink a hose or you will damage it inside. Do not over-tighten the fittings. Lubricate the fittings and the new "O" rings with some refrigerant oil.
    David Teitelbaum

  9. #9
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    Wanted to call out that the DPI hoses are a little longer than needed. You need to trim them to the proper length as they enter the engine compartment otherwise they will rest on places under the car you don't want them to rest upon, like your driver side axle.

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