Towing help- moving tomorrow!

[Helirich]

Ummm, of course you have someone in the car steering and braking. You guys had to be joking about towing with a rope and no one in the car.

[Andy_]

Ive decided to drive it there, just need a running engine, brake lights, turn signals.
And maybe brakes.

Ive ordered a new accumulator, i knew it was dying a few years ago.

Brake lights work, ive got rear turn signals both sides, but nothing at the front.
Is the main connector for the front lights by the fuel pump or behind the drivers side headlight?
Cant remember and the diagrams arent that detailed, maybe i missed it in the workshop manual.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ive decided to drive it there, just need a running engine, brake lights, turn signals.
And maybe brakes.

Ive ordered a new accumulator, i knew it was dying a few years ago.

Brake lights work, ive got rear turn signals both sides, but nothing at the front.
Is the main connector for the front lights by the fuel pump or behind the drivers side headlight?
Cant remember and the diagrams arent that detailed, maybe i missed it in the workshop manual.

Front connectors are in the washer bottle area. Not sure if you could get at them removing the drivers side headlight. Check your bulbs first but that would not stop me driving it temporarily.

[Rich W]

So have I been out of it for a while or is something just off with your picture? Are you making a limo delorean like Rich W?

Good eye, Shannon. That is indeed a photo of the D Limo frame
after the initial build up with the suspension and wheels installed.

I guess that was the first reference photo that Andy had handy.

As far as I know, that frame and chassis is still under my D Limo.
(I better check my storage)

[Helirich]

Ive decided to drive it there, just need a running engine, brake lights, turn signals.
And maybe brakes.

Ive ordered a new accumulator, i knew it was dying a few years ago.

Brake lights work, ive got rear turn signals both sides, but nothing at the front.
Is the main connector for the front lights by the fuel pump or behind the drivers side headlight?
Cant remember and the diagrams arent that detailed, maybe i missed it in the workshop manual.

A 1/2 mile? I would say you need a running engine and brakes. You don’t even need a good running engine and brakes. (You can have someone escort you and don’t drive fast)

[Andy_]

So iÂ’m checking everything.
Fuel pressures are good.
Reasonable spark. So started checking with the c1 / c2 ignition and fuel system diagnostic charts in the “technical information manual”.

Coil voltages were a bit low, so started checking the coil and ballast resistor wiring. I think i have a wiring problem with the by-pass relay.

I made a collage of the different references i could find, none of them give a complete picture or make sense to me.
A14CFB24-4ABB-480C-98D0-81B499E35BB7.jpg

There are 2 blue/yellow UY wires on the relay connector, pins 85 and 87.
Right now 85 goes through the yellow bulkhead connector, pin1, to the starter.

My ballast resistor has 2 wires connected on the right. Top right is white. Bottom right is white/yellow, going to + on coil. I cant work out which wire goes on the left of the ballast resistor, or where the other bypass relay wires go.
Any help hugely appreciated.

[Andy_]

So…
Top left diagram, is the black square at the bottom with 3 wires coming from it, is the black bit the wiring harness?
If so I have those wires correctly installed.

On the relay, black goes to earth, white goes to top right of resistor.

The 2 blue / yellow wires, im still unsure of.
I did a continuity test on the blue / yellow wire from the starter to all 3 blue/ yellows at the relay / ballast area and found one with continuity, but now im wondering if thats feeding back through a circuit / terminal somewhere else, as the wire in the diagram has a diode inline, which may break continuity.

If all that sounds about right, then i just need someone to confirm which way around the 2 blue/yellows go. Does bypass relay 85 go to top left of ballast, and 87 go to the starter,
Or is it the other way around please????

[Ron]

Hey Andy,
(I didn't reply before because you don't have a drawing to go with the terminal numbers you call out...)

Yes, the black bit is the harness.
There is no diode in the UY wire. That symbol is for an inline connector (probably at the bulkhead).

The Blue/Yellow (UY) wire from the starter solenoid gets 12V when the starter is engaged.
If the Black (B) wire to the relay is grounded and you hook the correct BU wire from the starter solenoid to the correct terminal, the relay will engage (you can see/hear it click) and the other BU wire will then get 12. So, try picking a BU wire and if it makes the solenoid engage, the other one goes to the left side of the ballast resister....

You should have 3 wires on the right, as in the 1st diagram.
(The WY wire on the left should be marked "WY" at both ends in the drawing (not "W" at the end that goes in to the harness).

[Andy_]

Thanks ron / dave m, i really do appreciate it.
Had an hour free today so replaced the accumulator..
The “fixing” i did of the relay / ballast yesterday has stopped the fuel pump and starter from running.
Hopefully can trace the wires back tomorrow!

[Andy_]

Car will only start with the plug swap. Runs strong 10-20 seconds, then you can hear it going to die,
As soon as i disconnect the swapped plug, and / or plug the 2 plugs back in it dies.
Seems to run better with csv and cpr unplugged from electrics.

If i try to start with plugs all in after a plug swap, it will run for a couple of seconds at most, touching the throttle to “help” it stay running immediately kills it.
Fuel pressure is showing 4.5 bar

Tried the rpm relay lead swap, could hear the pump running. Will only start this way with plug swap, runs worse than just plug swap.

Note: Im not hearing the frequency valve buzz when i turn on the ignition.
Im not noticing anything else unusual. Fuel pump wouldnt run earlier as i had unplugged the main loom by the washer reservoir, and reconnecting it did not actually reconnect it. Unplugged /plugged it a few times and the pump runs. Its in a very awkward place.

Just replaced accumulator, pressure holds for longer.
Pressure plate has resistance.
All fuses checked.
All connectors checked and cleaned.

Any advice welcome. Im thinking next step is check all flow from injectors. Ive gone through the 4 pages of tests to see why it wont start. I havent tested the tts. Didnt want coolant everywhere.