Quote Originally Posted by dmcman73 View Post
With the battery connected and the ignition in the off position, from the auxiliary relays that are under the metal shelf (these are the large metal ones next to each other) put a probe on the connecter on the relay that has the thinner White/Blue wire (there are two w/b wires on one of them, you want to check the thinner gauge one). If there is voltage on that line with the key in the off position, then the fault is at the ignition switch. This wire is what energizes the relay. If there is no voltage on the thinner w/b wire, then check the thick w/b wire. If the thicker w/b wire has voltage on it while the thinner w/b wire has no voltage then your relay is bad. This relay with the White/Blue wires supplies power to items like the radio, clock, a/c panel lights. etc.

There is also the other auxiliary relay right next to it that has two white wires going to it. Perform the same steps as above (except on the thinner white wire and thicker white wire). This relay supplies power to the RPM relay, Ignition ECU, Idle speed, wipers and directional switch. Since this relay supplies power to a lot of devices for the engine, I would test it as you turn the key to start, there should be power on the thinner white wire as you crank the engine as well as power on the thicker white wire.

The difference between the two axillary relays is that when you crank the engine, the aux relay with the white/blue wire should not have any power to it, it should only have power to it when the ignition switch is in the on and run positions and be off during the start (crank) position). The aux relay with the white wire should be on in all ignition switch positions.
Will do. Thank you!