Fuel Pressure Loss

[Ricker]

Thinking it was definitely the Fuel Accumulator I replaced it. Well, nothing changed. Still when it sits for a few days I still need to hit the key 20 - 30 times (not starting the starter motor) to get fuel to the motor and build up pressure. I think my next step is to replace the check valve at the fuel pump. I have a modern DMC one that is a few years old.

I also have been thinking about get a new RPM Relay and Hot Start Relay from DM-Engineering. They are solid state and do a few more things than the originals in there now.

Any comments?

[Ron]

How do you know that there is no pressure at the engine?

[Ricker]

How do you know that there is no pressure at the engine?

I really don't. I've not placed a gauge on it. I assumed that because even when you finally get fuel to the engine, and it starts it doesn't fire on all cylinder for 3 seconds or so. I may be wrong, but I am sure the engine is not get getting fuel until I keep cycling the fuel pump.

If the pressure is there but the fuel doesn't get to the engine for a while, what does that indicate? Thanks for the comments!

[Ron]

I really don't. I've not placed a gauge on it. I assumed that because even when you finally get fuel to the engine, and it starts it doesn't fire on all cylinder for 3 seconds or so. I may be wrong, but I am sure the engine is not get getting fuel until I keep cycling the fuel pump.

If the pressure is there but the fuel doesn't get to the engine for a while, what does that indicate? Thanks for the comments!

I was thinking that your cold start valve might not be priming the engine.
Next time it's fully cooled off, see if the air metering plate has pressure against it after you first try to start it. If it does, press the plate down fully and quickly release it to prime the engine...(Pumping the pedal does nothing.)

Not firing on all cylinders at first could mean that some of the plugs were fuel fowled.

I suggest you put a fuel gauge set at the top of your want list.

[Ricker]

Well, I think I finally got it by trial and error. I replaced the Fuel Accumulator, a new DMC Check Valve at the fuel pump and a new DM-Engineering solid state RPM Relay. So far so good. Starts right up hot and cold. Stay tuned.

[Ricker]

Well still not fixed. However, I could not get the car to start and ran down the battery. Jumped it and it started immediately. So, I checked the battery, and it was bad, so I replaced it. Still the same thing. If I let it set for a week it takes a lot of fuel pump running to get it started. Then I let it sit and the new battery went completely dead. I'm sure I had everything off. The only thing I can think of is those stupid door plunger switches did not cut out the door lights. What does everyone use on them to extend their length? Stupid car. Eventually something will finally break and then I will know what it was.

[82DMC12]

Well still not fixed. However, I could not get the car to start and ran down the battery. Jumped it and it started immediately. So, I checked the battery, and it was bad, so I replaced it. Still the same thing. If I let it set for a week it takes a lot of fuel pump running to get it started. Then I let it sit and the new battery went completely dead. I'm sure I had everything off. The only thing I can think of is those stupid door plunger switches did not cut out the door lights. What does everyone use on them to extend their length? Stupid car. Eventually something will finally break and then I will know what it was.

You can just cut a bit of vacuum tube or something and place it in the rubber cap first before slipping it over the switch.

Regarding battery drains, you should start by taking an amp draw reading between the positive cable and the battery connection with your multimeter. Then remove fuses one at a time until the draw becomes essentially zero. Then you know what circuit to look at to find the phantom draw.

Do you have an alarm system, subwoofers, aftermarket stereo, the original door lock solenoids, or any other extra "stuff"?

I have a toggle switch wired up to fuse 12 so I can turn off the interior lights and door lights when I'm working on the car with the doors open. Or at a car show.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The stock door lock ECU draws 10 ma. and the stock clock about 5 ma. So a week should not affect battery much but if my car sits for a week or longer then it needs the CSV to fire since some of the injector lines get some air in them.

You should do as suggested to measure battery draw with the doors closed to see if it if greater than 25 ma. If your drawing above 250 ma then that would drain your battery in a week.

[todd1561]

As for the fuel pressure issue, since that still seems to be a problem(?) check the little oring on the primary pressure regulator in the fuel distributor. If it?s bad it?ll let fuel drain back to the tank too quickly.

[Ricker]

Thanks guys! Alot to check and will probably take some time but at least a direction