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Thread: Compressor Clutch Bearing Replacement.

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    Compressor Clutch Bearing Replacement.

    I've only had my Sanden SD7H15 for 2 years now but unfortunately the compressor clutch bearing is starting to go and is letting me know this with really awful squealing until it has warmed up. Its Winter now so I just removed the belt but im starting to do my research on how I will accomplish this repair and the first thing on my mind is wonderinf if anyone can vouch for the fact that it can be done on an installed compressor? I'd really rather not has to go through all the AC refrigerant process again over this just to remove it from the car, but when summertime comes-- Ill do anything for that cold air.

    So, can anyone vouch for the ability to even do this on a compressor that is still installed onto the engine?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Link: Sanden SD Service Manual

    Have a look at this manual before you think about tearing into the clutch.

    Clutch disassembly may be possible without opening the refrigerant system. Check out the removal tools needed. Reassembly may be a different matter, esp for getting the rotor pulley back on. Then there's the issue of any parts you may need to replace. No direct experience here so no firm answer from me.

    It could be a bad bearing as you say or it could be a bad clutch spring or other component. If the clutch doesn't fully release when it should you'll get a horrible noise (with compressor "off"). Is this when you hear the noise? Or when compressor is engaged?

    Sanden USA may have a service desk to help you out on this. Sounds like a problem that could happen on any Sanden application, not only on this car.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

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    With the belt off I gave the clutch disc a spin by hand and it just wants to stop, whereas when brand new that thing kept on spinning for awhile. I'm certain that I am right but I appreciate the advice and will look into your suggestion on that, thanks for the service manual link Rich.

    Looking at this video is what shows me that tooling that requires perhaps more depth than what I'll get away with with the compressor installed. But perhaps ill end up finding some compatible bearing pulling tools that might allow for the job.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m5jtdX7_I0&t=182s

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCJosh85 View Post
    With the belt off I gave the clutch disc a spin by hand and it just wants to stop, whereas when brand new that thing kept on spinning for awhile. I'm certain that I am right but I appreciate the advice and will look into your suggestion on that, thanks for the service manual link Rich.

    Looking at this video is what shows me that tooling that requires perhaps more depth than what I'll get away with with the compressor installed. But perhaps ill end up finding some compatible bearing pulling tools that might allow for the job.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m5jtdX7_I0&t=182s
    The bearing *can* be replaced without disconnecting the hoses. Even with the special tools it is a pain-in-the-neck job, much easier "on the bench". Price up a replacement compressor, a new bearing, and the special tools. It might just be easier to replace the compressor and not all that much more expensive. Or maybe send the compressor out to have it done to a place like Classic Air in Florida. The bearings you get today are junk. Hard to get any that aren't made in China and if you can find one they are VERY expensive. China has just about cornered the market and driven most of the bearing manufacturers to either go out of business or have them made for them in China. Very sad. BTW, if you don't use the "correct" tools for the job you can end up damaging the compressor and the new bearing.
    David Teitelbaum

  5. #5
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCJosh85 View Post
    With the belt off I gave the clutch disc a spin by hand and it just wants to stop, whereas when brand new that thing kept on spinning for awhile. I'm certain that I am right but I appreciate the advice and will look into your suggestion on that, thanks for the service manual link Rich.

    Looking at this video is what shows me that tooling that requires perhaps more depth than what I'll get away with with the compressor installed. But perhaps ill end up finding some compatible bearing pulling tools that might allow for the job.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m5jtdX7_I0&t=182s
    That video is a good one to reference. The bearing is lightly pressed into the belt pulley that he removed with the 3 jaw puller. Once you get that pulley off, all you have to do is press out the old bearing from the pulley and press in the new one. Very straightforward IMO. With some assistance you can unbolt the compressor from its mounting tilt it up enough to pull off the pulley, without having evacuate the system and remove the compressor from the car. It depends on your comfort level.
    Get a quality bearing. I prefer Nachi and NSK for example.

    Here is my AC system refurb if it helps any, especially on tools required and reassembly. I completely rebuilt the compressor and it is still going strong after 5 years.:
    https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1...C-System/page5

    I think I replaced the bearing in mine, but I'll need to check my records.

    Also, when you are finished, check how tight your belts are. Getting them too tight can cause premature bearing failure, both on AC compressor and alternator.
    Last edited by DMC-81; 12-31-2022 at 06:52 AM.
    Dana

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    Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I tracked down the following bearing for the compressor, and what do you know? its an NSK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WDXWXK...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    I'm going to give this a try in the near future and I'll attempt to not disconnect the hoses. When I do ill report back how it all went. Thanks again everybody.

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    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCJosh85 View Post
    Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I tracked down the following bearing for the compressor, and what do you know? its an NSK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WDXWXK...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    I'm going to give this a try in the near future and I'll attempt to not disconnect the hoses. When I do ill report back how it all went. Thanks again everybody.
    Great. That looks like the right one. Good luck with the job.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

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    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    $.02
    When you drive the bearing back on, use a tool that pushes the inner race (not the outer, as in the vid).

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    I finally got around to starting this job on my Sanden SD7H15 . It was obvious that room wasn't going to be possible in the installed position, however after removing the 6 holding bolts I propped it with some padding underneath and was able to work just fine. I reached a work stoppage for now until I use a Dremel to carefully shave off the staking that overwhelmingly secure the bearing to the clutch pulley. Cant say I was expecting to see this... Sanden really doesn't want that bearing out.

    c2.jpgc1.jpgc4.jpgc3.jpgc5.jpg

  10. #10
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCJosh85 View Post
    ....I reached a work stoppage for now until I use a Dremel to carefully shave off the staking that overwhelmingly secure the bearing to the clutch pulley. Can't say I was expecting to see this... Sanden really doesn't want that bearing out.

    c4.jpgc3.jpg
    Your unexpected finding, the staked-in-place clutch/pulley bearing, might be because your compressor wasn't really made by Sanden?

    Hints:
    - It died after just 2 years.
    - The label on your compressor isn't "Sanden green" color. (but some of the fakes also have a green label)
    - First glance at labels shows other non-Sanden design hints. See link below.
    - It looks like Sanden really *does* want that bearing out. If it's a Sanden unit the bearing is held in by a snap ring on the other/front side of the pulley as seen in the diagram in Section 8.0 of the linked SD Service Manual in Post #2.
    - Post #5 says the bearing presses out easily, consistent with the snap ring design.

    Link to announcement of Sanden compressor anti-counterfeiting measures for SD5/7 units from 2011 has more details about their 2nd gen label design.

    Be aware that not all "NSK" replacement bearings that are sold online were really made by NSK, either. Even the ones that have the NSK letters on them. Sorry.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

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