Clutch master and slave

[FLUX @88]

I have read on the FB groups mixed feelings on different vendor clutch master cylinders and slaves..... Can I get recommendations on which to look into or which would be more successful over the other. Thanks everyone. I have looked at both DMCH and GO and they might actually be the same I am not sure.

[Timeless]

Have you looked into DPI?

[FLUX @88]

I have, but when i looked on their website it said something about not applicable with factory lines.

Have you looked into DPI?

[r00b]

I've had a slave from ebay in my car for the last 7 or so years https://www.ebay.com/itm/163670165205
I've had this as my master for the past 3 years https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...pt=1996&jsn=11

but the slave needs to be replaced so I'm going to go with DPIs stainless master when it's available again.

[r00b]

Turned out my e-bay slave was fine. The problem was my rock auto master, I wasn't driving the car a whole lot. So I think the issue is with how close the bottle is to the inlet on the master. When the fluid in the bottle absorbs moisture it gets sucked into the cylinder and corrodes the sealing surface, it maybe prudent to relocate the bottle. Anyway I decided to switch to the Autozone version of the master. https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/...958/733832_0_0, lifetime warranty so I never have to buy a master again. The lid on the bottle was a little bigger than the notch I dremeled out of the body, but it can still be removed without issue. You have to drill the bolt holes slightly bigger or use smaller bolts, and I swapped out the clutch push rod for the one on this cylinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CAVUKC. On that push rod I removed the nut and hacked the threaded section in half, then moved the fork all the way to the rear. works fine and moved the clutch engagement point closer to the front half of pedal travel. I might put the nut back on and remove all the clutch pedal flop.

[FLUX @88]

Turned out my e-bay slave was fine. The problem was my rock auto master, I wasn't driving the car a whole lot. So I think the issue is with how close the bottle is to the inlet on the master. When the fluid in the bottle absorbs moisture it gets sucked into the cylinder and corrodes the sealing surface, it maybe prudent to relocate the bottle. Anyway I decided to switch to the Autozone version of the master. https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/...958/733832_0_0, lifetime warranty so I never have to buy a master again. The lid on the bottle was a little bigger than the notch I dremeled out of the body, but it can still be removed without issue. You have to drill the bolt holes slightly bigger or use smaller bolts, and I swapped out the clutch push rod for the one on this cylinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CAVUKC. On that push rod I removed the nut and hacked the threaded section in half, then moved the fork all the way to the rear. works fine and moved the clutch engagement point closer to the front half of pedal travel. I might put the nut back on and remove all the clutch pedal flop.

thanks for the information!!!

[Helirich]

I have, but when i looked on their website it said something about not applicable with factory lines.

I believe the slave will work with factory lines. Either that or they have standard ones also. That?s what I did because I had already replaced the master when I first got the car. If I was to do it again, I would get the whole DPI kit. I like both of the other companies, but you can?t really go wrong with anything DPI sells. They might not do everything, but what they do is done right.

[FLUX @88]

I believe the slave will work with factory lines. Either that or they have standard ones also. That?s what I did because I had already replaced the master when I first got the car. If I was to do it again, I would get the whole DPI kit. I like both of the other companies, but you can?t really go wrong with anything DPI sells. They might not do everything, but what they do is done right.

thanks for the input! it helps a lot