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Thread: How To: WUR (Warm Up Regulator) CPR (Control Pressure regulator) rebuild kit

  1. #1
    Senior Member nkemp's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Buffalo MN

    Posts:    759

    My VIN:    897 5 spd,

    How To: WUR (Warm Up Regulator) CPR (Control Pressure regulator) rebuild kit

    I recently rebuilt the WUR (Warm Up Regulator) CPR (Control Pressure regulator) using a rebuild kit purchased via eBay and shipped from Germany. You want the repair kit for Bosch 0438140066 Warm Up Regulator DeLorean DMC and Volvo 260 2.8. The kit I got was very complete including replacement bolts, washers and nuts and banjo bolts and crush washers. I got mine from eBay vendor Missingparts or visit their website: Repair kit for all Bosch double-diaphragm warm-up regulators / Repair Set ? missingparts

    I was going to attach the .PDF instruction from the vendor and let it explain the process ... but it is about 1 meg larger than the forum allows uploading. I've tried a number of ways to make it smaller (ziping, splitting, Adobe compressing) and nothing works. The file is locked for starters. Until a solution is found, you might try contacting the vendor for a copy or watch some YouTube videos.

    Follows are my additional comments.

    All said and done, this was not all that difficult. Like any project there were a couple head scratching steps because things don't go as easily as desired. Cleanliness and patience are important. The instruction PDF is pretty good but ... :
    • On PDF indicated page 10, where it says "Remove the steel-plate" it is missing a very important caution. In the center of the plate there is a very very tiny cup. It will fall out and end up missing if you are not aware of it. Ask me how I know this ... or simply guess how I know this. I did find mine but that was mostly divine intervention.
      • If you lose yours, I'm guessing that any Bosch WUR has a similar cup. You may be able to get a replacement by buying any Bosch WUR (any part number) and salvaging the missing cup. No guarantee that will work ... just guessing.

    • Our WUR housing is comprised of three parts as shown in the instructions. The bottom two smaller pieces did not want to separate.
      • Caution, inserting a screwdriver between the plates may damage the surface to the point of the two surfaces not being able to seal when reassembly.
      • I got mine separated using a wide blade flat screwdriver. There is a spot between one of the two ports where you can lodge the screwdriver and twist such that the pressure forces the plates apart. (Sorry no picture ...can someone add?) This released enough of the plates to create a gap that I could further separate the parts.

    • In our WUR, between the two bottom plates that were separate per the previous bullets, there is a fairly large spring not shown in the instructions. No big deal on disassembly, just be aware of it and the fact that it will push the parts apart.
    • The instructions show how to measure the exposed thread so that when you reassemble the unit it's very close to being calibrated as before. Look closely at the image, zoom in and notice that the measurement is just the threads!
      • I was not careful looking at the instruction's picture and measured the top of the tread to the big plate. That was a mistake. I had to reassemble the parts to the height measured and then remeasure just the exposed threads. Thus introducing potential error.

    • There are 4 nuts in the top of the housing that, in my case, were stuck. There are two options to get them out. The first did not work for me. The second did. I suppose either of these could fail damaging the nut's thread in which case you'll need to develop a third method to remove the nut. Here are two options:
      • Take the removed screw and reinsert into the nut in the direction originally installed. Gently tap the screw head to ease it out of its hole.
      • Put a washer on the removed screw, insert it into the nut the opposite direction as originally installed. The washer needs to be sized to clear the WUR housing. Then tighten the screw pulling the nut free. This worked really well on mine

    • The instructions don't mention reinstalling the big spring mentioned above. Reassembling the housing with that spring installed results in enough force that makes the reassembly difficult. It is kinda a handful. Note that when aligning the parts, the orange gasket wants to twist out of alignment. Patience is advised ... and maybe a helper. I got it without a helper.
    • When done there are a couple of extra parts.
      • Mine came with five sets of the tiny small screws, washers and nuts. Thank you to the vendor since it would be easy to lose a part or strip the threads.
      • There is an extra larger nut. In my WUR there is a bolt holding the Heater element in position. Evidently some WUR's have a stud instead and thus the reason for the nut.

    • I painted the WUR with gray engine paint. I painted the top round disc black using a small hobby brush. I sprayed some black paint into a small cap/cup I found in our recycling.


    Prior to rebuilding, my car did a great job of fogging the neighborhood for mosquitoes ... very embarrassing. Also it ran like shcnit ... very embarrassing. A couple minutes later when it warmed up it would run perrrfect.

    After rebuilding, and without and testing or calibration, it it is 99% perfect from the start. I did notice some very very very slight indications that some calibration of the heater element location or pressure setting might improve opertion. But quiet frankly Frank, I'm not sure it is worth it unless tuning the whole system.

    At this point, I'm delighted with the rebuild results.
    Last edited by nkemp; 11-18-2023 at 02:18 PM.
    Nick
    - No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
    - Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
    - The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".

  2. #2
    Senior Member nkemp's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Buffalo MN

    Posts:    759

    My VIN:    897 5 spd,

    Thanks to FABombjoy for shrinking the instruction .PDF so that I can upload it.

    Here is the instruction for the WUR repair/refurbish kit: WUR repair instructions Shrunk.pdf
    Nick
    - No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
    - Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
    - The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".

  3. #3
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

    Posts:    1,158

    Quote Originally Posted by nkemp View Post
    Thanks to FABombjoy for shrinking the instruction .PDF so that I can upload it.

    Here is the instruction for the WUR repair/refurbish kit: WUR repair instructions Shrunk.pdf
    It says it is a broken link on my end

    Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Senior Member nkemp's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Buffalo MN

    Posts:    759

    My VIN:    897 5 spd,

    Quote Originally Posted by SupercoolBill View Post
    It says it is a broken link on my end

    Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
    I tried it and it works for me. It is a file download and takes me to Save File screen.

    I recommend trying again or retrying after reloading the browser. Also, I find the PC operates weird if there are pending upgrades.. Or trying in an incognito window.

    I'm not aware of what else to do about the link (anyone else having this problem?) since it works for me and I'm limited to what can be done. If the problem persists, PM me your email and I can send directly.
    Nick
    - No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
    - Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
    - The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

    Posts:    413

    My VIN:    4665

    Worked for me. No problems.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,328

    Is there a test for the electric heater part of the WUR? I believe mine is bad. If it is bad, am I correct in saying this kit won?t help?

  7. #7
    Senior Member nkemp's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Buffalo MN

    Posts:    759

    My VIN:    897 5 spd,

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Is there a test for the electric heater part of the WUR? I believe mine is bad. If it is bad, am I correct in saying this kit won?t help?
    There is an easy test for the heater. Using a VOM, remove the plug and measure resistance across the connector pins. If zero (open circuit) then I believe it is bad (may simply be a broken wire.) Off the top of my head, I think its resistance should measure about 20 Ohms. Actual value is less important compared to it reading zero Ohms. Note that a forum search will generate more WUR heater info.

    Correct in that the kit does not fix problems of any kind relating to the heater.

    If your D runs like crap for a mile or two then comes to life, then I suspect a rebuild will help. At least that was my experience.
    Last edited by nkemp; 11-20-2023 at 01:10 PM.
    Nick
    - No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
    - Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
    - The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".

  8. #8
    Senior Member nkemp's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Buffalo MN

    Posts:    759

    My VIN:    897 5 spd,

    Update: Still delighted. It's days later and the improved performance of the initial drives appears to not be a fluke. I hope it continues.

    Drove the car today and it's a delight to drive. And ... coincidence, cause and effect, or some other factor, the car is not hunting. RPM's are rock steady. Could it be that the poor performing WUR was a contributing factor to hunting? My car does seem to like the cooler (mid 40's here today) weather. It just seems to run better. But I'll not be able to consider the heat and humidity variables for a while.

    And I noticed the grass was greener, the sky bluer, the air cleaner the men more handsome, the women more beautiful, and the breeze was always to my back. So get your WUR tuned
    Nick
    - No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
    - Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
    - The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,328

    Quote Originally Posted by nkemp View Post
    There is an easy test for the heater. Using a VOM, remove the plug and measure resistance across the connector pins. If zero (open circuit) then I believe it is bad (may simply be a broken wire.) Off the top of my head, I think its resistance should measure about 20 Ohms. Actual value is less important compared to it reading zero Ohms. Note that a forum search will generate more WUR heater info.

    Correct in that the kit does not fix problems of any kind relating to the heater.

    If your D runs like crap for a mile or two then comes to life, then I suspect a rebuild will help. At least that was my experience.
    Mine has the 20 Ohms across the pins. The issue is one of the pins is a direct short to ground. Would that be correct?

    Mine runs like crap for a mile in the summer, then good. In the winter, it runs like crap for 10 miles. I have the heater unplugged because it would make a relay hot. I have allready rebuilt mine, but my kit had nothing for the heater.

  10. #10
    Senior Member nkemp's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Buffalo MN

    Posts:    759

    My VIN:    897 5 spd,

    I don't think it should be shorted to housing ground. But housing ground probably shares the ground with the circuit via chassis common ground. So one pin should read zero as measured to chassis ground.

    I've PM'd Bitsyncmaster to help with your question/problem.

    Other than the ground question, you car sounds like how mine would run except it ran better earlier than 10 minutes. As I recall, engine temperature alone should bring the WUR to normal temperature a lot sooner than 10 minutes. Per usual, check that the vacuum plumbing is correct, that the inlet screen isn't blocked, that the U shaped open ended hose isn't blocked (with a bug or dirt), that the Vacuum switch with the 3 hoses operates properly. But I suspect it is the WUR needing rebuild again.
    Last edited by nkemp; 11-21-2023 at 12:26 AM.
    Nick
    - No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
    - Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
    - The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".

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