700 mile trip tomorrow

[ssdelorean]

.... <<snip>>

Anyways, thanks to all that threw out ideas. It feels good to have people helping me from afar.

Likewise. Thank you all. I love how this community helps each other out.


Regarding your earlier hotel parking question. I like to park on an end where only 1 other car could be beside me. Also park in a well lit higher trafficked area so no one will have secluded/hidden access where they could do harm for a long length of time.

[Helirich]

This trip the client invited me to stay at his house, so I got to park the car in his hanger. That was great. He has tons of tools, but no lift. He?s set up for working on planes/helicopters.

[DMC-Ron]

Last summer I had a similar issue. The clutch did not fully disengage, and as the car got warmer the symptoms got worse. Eventually, the car would not go into reverse, or first. The pedal didn't feel out of the ordinary and it shifted fine through all the gears with the engine off. If I started off in second it shifted OK through the forward gears once it was moving. I checked my clutch reservoir with a conductivity tester and it showed a high moisture content. I decided to flush in new fluid and bleed the clutch slave.
And yes, bleeding the clutch was a PITA. But, putting new fluid in and getting the air bled out totally fixed the issue.

I hope bleeding the clutch has worked for you as well.

Ron

[Helirich]

Well it made it 600 miles back and failed again 10 miles from my home. Same symptoms. It?s a lot nicer happening close to home. I?ll look at it tomorrow. I?m going to bleed it till I get clean new fluid. I?m thinking of a remote bleeder system. Any reviews?

[WHO1DMC]

Well it made it 600 miles back and failed again 10 miles from my home. Same symptoms. It?s a lot nicer happening close to home. I?ll look at it tomorrow. I?m going to bleed it till I get clean new fluid. I?m thinking of a remote bleeder system. Any reviews?

This is what I used when I replaced the master and slave on my car. I used the reverse method and needed to do it once.

They cost a little over $50 Amazon.




Dave B.

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[DMC-Ron]

I've had good results with a pressure bleeder. In fact, I ended up with two units. I have a Schwaben unit that I've had for years. Then about 5 years ago I purchased a Motive Products unit on Amazon. The Motive unit is still available:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

Why two? The idea was I would keep the Schwaben unit dry, not contaminate it with brake fluid. That way I could use it as a coolant pressure tester and anything else that would require low pressure testing. In the end, I found that I could bleed brake/clutch systems just fine by simply filling the reservoir to the brim and making sure I didn't let it go low as I was bleeding. The pressure bleeder tank ends up serving as just an air pressure tank. Easier to do several refills of the reservoir than to try and clean the pressure bleeder tank (brake fluid is nasty stuff) after each use.

I end up favoring the Schwaben unit. It has a nicer gauge, pump is smoother, and has a convenient pressure adjust/release button. As you can see from the photo I have kludged together various adaptors.

The Motive product unit worked just fine as well.
Ron

Schwaben pressure bleeder.jpg

[Helirich]

I've had good results with a pressure bleeder. In fact, I ended up with two units. I have a Schwaben unit that I've had for years. Then about 5 years ago I purchased a Motive Products unit on Amazon. The Motive unit is still available:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

Why two? The idea was I would keep the Schwaben unit dry, not contaminate it with brake fluid. That way I could use it as a coolant pressure tester and anything else that would require low pressure testing. In the end, I found that I could bleed brake/clutch systems just fine by simply filling the reservoir to the brim and making sure I didn't let it go low as I was bleeding. The pressure bleeder tank ends up serving as just an air pressure tank. Easier to do several refills of the reservoir than to try and clean the pressure bleeder tank (brake fluid is nasty stuff) after each use.

I end up favoring the Schwaben unit. It has a nicer gauge, pump is smoother, and has a convenient pressure adjust/release button. As you can see from the photo I have kludged together various adaptors.

The Motive product unit worked just fine as well.
Ron

Schwaben pressure bleeder.jpg

That?s pretty fancy. I was referring to the remote bleeder that Delorean industries sells. There maybe others. It?s just an extension of the bleeder valve so you can get to it easily. I can barely get my hand to the stock one after I remove the spark plug wire holder.

[82DMC12]

I have the DeLorean Industries version. It's high quality as expected and the hardware and mounting system is thoughtful and well done. I recommend it.

The hose is long enough to bleed from above or below, your preference.

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[dn010]

If I still had the original engine in my car, I would have gotten the remote bleeder years ago. Regardless of installing the remote bleeder or not, you still need to figure out how air is getting into the system otherwise this will be an ongoing problem although it may take a long time to repeat itself since you're not going that distance on a daily basis.

I have both reverse bleeders and pressure bleeders, used both on brake systems before and the best I found to work was the pressure bleeder.

[dmcman73]

If I still had the original engine in my car, I would have gotten the remote bleeder years ago. Regardless of installing the remote bleeder or not, you still need to figure out how air is getting into the system otherwise this will be an ongoing problem although it may take a long time to repeat itself since you're not going that distance on a daily basis.

I have both reverse bleeders and pressure bleeders, used both on brake systems before and the best I found to work was the pressure bleeder.

If it was air, it would not wait 600 miles before showing symptoms each time he drives the car, my guess is that he has a high water content in his fluid from absorption that after driving for a while, the water is reaching a boiling point causing his issues. Once the car cools down, it's OK to drive again until it heats up to the point of boiling the moisture in the fluid again.