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Thread: Idle takes a long time to settle down on warm start

  1. #1
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    Idle takes a long time to settle down on warm start

    When starting the car, I know the idle is supposed to be a little high in the initial seconds just like any car. But on my car it takes maybe 10 seconds if I start it warm. Is this normal? I feel kind of embarassed about it sometimes when starting the car again after for example a fill-up at the gas station. I can get around it by turning the key to the run position and wait 10 seconds before cranking. There seems to be some timer that goes from turning the ignition on until it allows normal idle.

  2. #2
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    Tons if possibilities from an intake leak to PPR seals. Maybe take a look at the microswitch and make sure it's not only engaging but the idle circuit is functional.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    What RPM is it when you see this problem?
    Dave M vin 03572
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    Tons if possibilities from an intake leak to PPR seals. Maybe take a look at the microswitch and make sure it's not only engaging but the idle circuit is functional.
    It works perfectly fine, it just takes 10 seconds to kick in after turning ignition on.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nioreh View Post
    When starting the car, I know the idle is supposed to be a little high in the initial seconds just like any car. But on my car it takes maybe 10 seconds if I start it warm. Is this normal? I feel kind of embarassed about it sometimes when starting the car again after for example a fill-up at the gas station. I can get around it by turning the key to the run position and wait 10 seconds before cranking. There seems to be some timer that goes from turning the ignition on until it allows normal idle.


    no, not normal.

    I can for sure fix it but I'm in Germany and most likely shipping is the problem ?

  6. #6
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nioreh View Post
    I can get around it by turning the key to the run position and wait 10 seconds before cranking. There seems to be some timer that goes from turning the ignition on until it allows normal idle.
    I would look first at the idle speed motor and verify it is working correctly and there are no broken air lines in that area. Be sure to check the vacuum lines on the back of the valve cover as well.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    I would look first at the idle speed motor and verify it is working correctly and there are no broken air lines in that area. Be sure to check the vacuum lines on the back of the valve cover as well.
    Idle motor is new and works fine. Like I said, everything is working great. I even expect a flare up on dtart, since most cars do that. But it takes about 10 seconds before it returns to normal idle. And I can avoid the flare up by just waiting 10 seconds to start the car.

    But I know now by your answers that this is not normal. So I assume my idle computer has some issue. Either that or some thermal sensor maybe thinks the engine is cold and takes a while to give correct readings.

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    My guess is you have vacuum leaks, looseness in the quadrant link, and your CPR probably needs to be rebuilt. If it idles fine after 10 seconds and everything else seems fine, I would not do anything about it right away. On my car, if it hasn't been run in a while, it runs a little rough for about 10 seconds on a cold start. The way all of the systems work during the warm-up cycle, the motor won't run like a modern car with a full blown engine management system. It should be fine once you get into "closed cycle". The real test is your Miles Per Gallon (MPG). Should be at least 20 MPG.
    David Teitelbaum

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    My guess is you have vacuum leaks, looseness in the quadrant link, and your CPR probably needs to be rebuilt. If it idles fine after 10 seconds and everything else seems fine, I would not do anything about it right away. On my car, if it hasn't been run in a while, it runs a little rough for about 10 seconds on a cold start. The way all of the systems work during the warm-up cycle, the motor won't run like a modern car with a full blown engine management system. It should be fine once you get into "closed cycle". The real test is your Miles Per Gallon (MPG). Should be at least 20 MPG.
    How would a vacuum leak do this? How could I possibly avoid the issue by waiting 10 seconds to crank it if it was a vacuum leak? That makes no sense. And it is a hot car, not "not been run for a while".

  10. #10
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    so you're not interested in having it repaired ?

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