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Thread: Front wheels far forward in opening (and rear tire clearance)

  1. #41
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2013

    Location:  Richmond Va.

    Posts:    143

    This was a decade or more ago, but I seem to recall Ed Uding chiming in and telling us that there were 2 (or more) different sets of underbody molds and depending on which one made your underbody, it would affect the stance of your car. Hence how a set of lowering springs might look slammed on one car and not on another. Factor that in with panel alignment and this can explain what we are talking about in this thread.

    20069 One of the last few built has the tire centered in the opening even with the car lowered.
    Steve

  2. #42
    Junior Mint Member Carbuilder's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2024

    Location:  Bolton, Ontario, Canada

    Posts:    37

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    Not so simple: you'll still have the sway bar pulling the LCAs forward to the original position which will destroy the bushings. You'd have to either move the sway bar mounting back or figure out how to extend the ends of the bar that attach to the control arm. Not sure what that would do to your steering or handling. I'm always with the frame of mind that it was done the way it was originally for a reason.
    I have about 3/8" of thread left on the sway bar to move the LCA (including a couple of threads left for safety). I can make a spacer for the front of it. The slotted holes in the mounting brackets also allow some movement rearward on the sway bar. So I should be able to move the whole system rearward .4"-.5" without changing the suspension geometry (or changing it very little) and not stressing any bushings.

    I know it was all set up the way it is for a reason, but I also know there are often compromises made to the ideal suspension geometry to cater for packaging around the whole area. I don't plan on going to the track with it or really pushing in on the street, so what I change should have very little effect on drivability. As far as I can see, I'm changing it to what it should have been like from the factory, as I doubt they deliberately set mine up with the tire almost hitting the fender lip.

    I do appreciate all the advice and information given to me here. It gives me a better idea of what to do and not to do.

    Rick

  3. #43
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

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    Quote Originally Posted by Carbuilder View Post
    As far as I can see, I'm changing it to what it should have been like from the factory, as I doubt they deliberately set mine up with the tire almost hitting the fender lip.
    Considering other vehicles have the body placed better over the wheels, what it should have been like from the factory is our frames mated better to the body and the fender panels aligned better. Then you wouldn't have to modify the frame. I will give a better effort to find photos of my car with the original frame just to see if it is any different prior to disassembly and changing frames and all that.

    Also just to caution you, it has been a long time since I had my sway bar bracket apart but from what I recall, it isn't slotted so you can slide it where you want it. I think it is slotted because it only goes on in one position and the slot is there to make installation possible on frames where the bolt holes may vary from one to the other. I may be wrong but I do remember having a PITA time putting the brackets back on and not being able to slide them.
    -----Dan B.

  4. #44
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,191

    My VIN:    10270

    Toby's sway bar bushing kit had slotted bushing assemblies at the body. I assume they're pretty standard sway bar body mounts? Its been so long since I've seen the originals you're probably right and they're not slotted. But that's easy to fix with a grinder if you're only after a little

    Sway bar bushings are a chore if the wheels are up. Weight on the front is pretty easy. I recently R&R'd the entire ARB/radiator bracket assembly on my parking lift to swap fan shrouds and did so without any assist. Everything should fall mostly in to place.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  5. #45
    Senior Member jamesrguk's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  England UK

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    My VIN:    5462

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    As soon as your car is rolling forward the front un-driven wheels are naturally going to be dragged backwards in the wheel arch, more so under any kind of braking/cornering, so as long as the wheel doesn't touch the fender when stationary then aside from the aesthetics you should be fine.

    J
    James Russell-Grant
    VIN# 5462 Grey Automatic, Purchased in January 2000
    www.printsolid.co.uk

  6. #46
    Junior Mint Member Carbuilder's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2024

    Location:  Bolton, Ontario, Canada

    Posts:    37

    So when I'm backing up it gets worse? And backing up usually involves the turning the steering a lot, where my clearance gets even less. Part of the reason for me wanting to correct things (even if contact with the fender lip won't happen) is a visual thing; it just looks off.

    And as for the sway bar mounts, I have the aftermarket slotted ones. I didn't pay attention to where the bolts were in the slots when I zipped them out, so not sure if I have room in the slots to move the brackets or not.

  7. #47
    Junior Mint Member Carbuilder's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2024

    Location:  Bolton, Ontario, Canada

    Posts:    37

    One side taken apart. Now for a bit of modification. I've ordered coil-overs. I was going to get lowering springs, but that would leave it lowered a fixed amount; an amount I may or may not like.

    Screenshot 2025-02-06 at 8.12.08 PM.jpg

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