Front wheels far forward in opening (and rear tire clearance)

[Carbuilder]

True that only toe is adjustable, that's because camber and caster are in the designed range by default as long as the frame is straight, chassis is straight, and bushings are in good shape. You can still measure them on an alignment rack.

You've pulled the front LCA's backwards over half an inch, and there isn't that much adjustment available in the ARB. There are no threads left in stock form when attached correctly so can't add machined bushings in front of the LCA to ARB bushings. So now you will have the LCA's pigeon-toed which will put additional stress on all the bushings including the upper and lower shock mounts because it can't move up and down in a vertical direction, now everything is at an angle, and the LCA is moving in an arc as the springs compress. It also reduces contact area during a turn.

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Have you read more of this thread?

I have measured the caster and camber. The caster was actually out of spec, so I'm putting it back where it should be. I'm moving the upper (a little) and lower (more) control arms to do that.

As for "everything is at an angle" (which it is with the stock suspension to give the caster) and the "LCA is moving in an arc as the spring compresses", I don't understand how that would happen with what I'm doing compared to leaving it stock.

Obviously you don't like or agree with what I'm doing...fine. Time will tell how it works out.

[82DMC12]

Have you read more of this thread?

I have measured the caster and camber. The caster was actually out of spec, so I'm putting it back where it should be. I'm moving the upper (a little) and lower (more) control arms to do that.

As for "everything is at an angle" (which it is with the stock suspension to give the caster) and the "LCA is moving in an arc as the spring compresses", I don't understand how that would happen with what I'm doing compared to leaving it stock.

Obviously you don't like or agree with what I'm doing...fine. Time will tell how it works out.

If the caster is that far out it's because your frame and/or front suspension is damaged.

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[Carbuilder]

If the caster is that far out it's because your frame and/or front suspension is damaged.

That would explain it, but I don't see any damage. I'm bringing the car to the local expert in the spring for some minor work. I'll ask him to check it out.

I wonder how many people have taken their cars for an alignment check to see what the caster is. Maybe some cars have excessive caster and they just don't know it.

[dn010]

Did you measure both with and without the support brackets attached, with the car's weight on all wheels evenly? It was unclear to me in post 37, photo shows the gauge attached but the wheel hanging.

[Carbuilder]

Did you measure both with and without the support brackets attached, with the car's weight on all wheels evenly? It was unclear to me in post 37, photo shows the gauge attached but the wheel hanging.

I may have measured it incorrectly, but I think it should be OK. Since I couldn't attach the magnetic caster/camber gauge to the wheel, I supported the car at the outboard end of the lower control arms. This is pretty close to simulating it being on its wheels as the suspension is not drooped at all. When I get it back together I'll measure it the same way, then make an adapter to measure it with the wheels on. I'll see if there is any difference. Since I'm measuring it the proper way, by swinging the steering an equal amount in both directions, a slight angle to the wheels/car shouldn't matter.

I didn't measure it without the support brackets. I know most people talk about how much the LCA can move back and forth without support, but for measuring suspension geometry I can't see that matters. Cornering loads might move it, but trying to move it with it only attached at the inboard end is not possible by hand. There didn't seem to be any force in getting the supports to sit flush at either end, so they weren't forcing the LCA forward/rearward.

I don't claim to be an expert at this. But I have built a number of kit cars (and corrected bad suspension geometry on some), modified drivetrains, and done a lot of research on how suspensions work.

[Carbuilder]

And all for what... The tire wasn't centered in the wheel well?

No, if you read the first post, it is because the tire comes so close to the fender lip, and that is just static. Reversing while steering may cause the tire to rub. Hard to tell, but there looks like there could be some marks from rubbing. The tire not being centered is the cause, so yes, I'm trying to address that a little.

Now, onto the subject here. Has anyone else ever snapped off the end of the anti-roll bar? Didn't think so.

I was tightening up the nut securing it to the LCA and was nowhere near the final torque (55 lb-ft). I had not attached it to the frame yet, so there was no stress on it. It just snapped off. Having a good look at it I can see why. Looks like they weld on threaded studs to the ends of the bar. Maybe they drill a hole first, but however it is done you can see a void in the center of it. And it looks like cast material; it wouldn't be, but the weld re-melt looks brittle like that. Knowing now how it looks inside I would never expect it to take 55 lb-ft of torque....and it obviously couldn't. Maybe it developed a crack over time that weakened it.

Oh well, one more issue to deal with.

Screenshot 2025-02-22 at 12.43.55 PM.jpg

Screenshot 2025-02-22 at 12.44.14 PM.jpg

[82DMC12]

The end broke off because your LCA won't move due to the braces and because too fucking far backwards! Didn't I tell you you will never get the roll bar attached?

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[Carbuilder]

The end broke off because your LCA won't move due to the braces and because too fucking far backwards! Didn't I tell you you will never get the roll bar attached?

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Do you actually bother reading anything I write before responding? Read my post again.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was tightening up the nut securing it to the LCA and was nowhere near the final torque (55 lb-ft). I had not attached it to the frame yet, so there was no stress on it. It just snapped off. Having a good look at it I can see why. Looks like they weld on threaded studs to the ends of the bar. Maybe they drill a hole first, but however it is done you can see a void in the center of it. And it looks like cast material; it wouldn't be, but the weld re-melt looks brittle like that. Knowing now how it looks inside I would never expect it to take 55 lb-ft of torque....and it obviously couldn't. Maybe it developed a crack over time that weakened it.

I've not heard anyone else have that problem yet. Maybe it has happened. Are you going to try to fix it or get another bar?

[82DMC12]

I just asked the most experienced longest running DeLorean mechanic on the planet who's been doing nothing but repairing DeLorean since 1981, he said he's only seen this happen once in his life and it was in 1983, defective bar. So I'm going to have to blame the user here.

And actually, for the reason I predicted a few days ago.

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