Fuel Pump

[Ricker]

Your fuel gauge will not work properly, unless DMCH changed something with their sender setup.

When my DMCH pump failed many years ago I also switched to the Tahoe pump. I was able to get the gauge working by bending up a new float arm out of a coat hanger. I found the senders to operate within the same ohm range, but inverted to one another.

If you still have the old pump housing I would gladly purchase it off of you. They fit a Hellcat pump very nicely

Sorry for the delayed response. I did not keep the old fuel pump. Also, you are right, the fuel level senor does not work. I was thinking of getting the original sensor and using it and forgetting about the integral one with the new fuel pump. Comment? Also, if I go that way both the fuel pump and fuel level sender is direct wired, no other sender unit or something. I don't remember if there was something when I converted back 8 years ago. Otherwise, the DMC sender unit is removed?

[dn010]

I'm using the tahoe pump without the sensor arm attached and just using the original DMC sensor setup (DMCH upgraded sending unit). Works just fine.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Sorry for the delayed response. I did not keep the old fuel pump. Also, you are right, the fuel level senor does not work. I was thinking of getting the original sensor and using it and forgetting about the integral one with the new fuel pump. Comment? Also, if I go that way both the fuel pump and fuel level sender is direct wired, no other sender unit or something. I don't remember if there was something when I converted back 8 years ago. Otherwise, the DMC sender unit is removed?

Yes an original or vendor copy of the original sender is wired directly to the fuel gauge. No ECU is required. The problem with that setup is the gauge will move a lot when going up or down hills or accelerating and stopping the car.

[Ricker]

Got a fuel level sending unit like the original from DeloreanGo. Rewired the fuel pump and everything is working fine. And yes, the fuel gauge goes up and down when you accelerate, stop, on a hill, etc. But set still at a light or something and you get the correct level. I can live with that.

[Chris 16409]

All you have to do is plug both holes in the bottom of the sending unit. It will eliminate the constant needle movement under acceleration and braking.

62413951115__4620E56A-BAE8-4287-8417-852EE526DE99.jpg

I have the same setup. If anybody wants to convert to the modern GM unit, I have install kits available. I like the GM MU1777 as they are still Made in Mexico. The Delphi pumps are now made in China. They can be identified by the blue plastic top. Older stock Mexican Made Delphi pumps may still be floating around out there. If you have a good working fuel sending unit, my kit is a good solution. Dave McKeen also sells a logic box that can drive the built in sender.

20220522_011418.jpg

[Ricker]

All you have to do is plug both holes in the bottom of the sending unit. It will eliminate the constant needle movement under acceleration and braking.

62413951115__4620E56A-BAE8-4287-8417-852EE526DE99.jpg

I have the same setup. If anybody wants to convert to the modern GM unit, I have install kits available. I like the GM MU1777 as they are still Made in Mexico. The Delphi pumps are now made in China. They can be identified by the blue plastic top. Older stock Mexican Made Delphi pumps may still be floating around out there. If you have a good working fuel sending unit, my kit is a good solution. Dave McKeen also sells a logic box that can drive the built in sender.

20220522_011418.jpg

I'll keep that in mine. Thanks!