Door torsion bar stuck in retention plate

[82DMC12]

With the T panel removed and the door vertical, you can slowly release the tension and the bracket will stop rotating just short off the rear glass. Then the bracket will just slide off easy.

Have you actually done this? I tried this urban legend myself while having my T panel off and it's not true. There remains too much twist, vertical is nowhere near enough, it would have to be hyperextended backwards to the balance limit like in Dickey's picture to work.

There are only three or four adjustment options available in the splines that will result in a usable door at, say 75F. You would have droopy doors unless you use very strong pistons sitting in the sun in order to have the bar slide out even past vertical.

For the hell of it I tried many adjustments just to see and it doesn't work. I think Bill Robertson has been spreading this legend.

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[82DMC12]

Also, OP, are you seriously trying to remove the torsion bar with the gas strut in place?

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[David T]

Assuming you could remove all of the torsion force by over-extending the door, that would also assume the torsion bar is not over-torqued. Too many assumptions. I personally have seen the results of not releasing all of the torsional forces and it isn't pretty. Taking short cuts, unless you know what you are doing, can result in unforeseen consequences. It is your car and you can do to it whatever you want but no one wants to see anyone get hurt. Make the jig and get the proper tools. With the louvers removed you don't need the jig or an extension, just a 1/2" breaker bar, a 3/8 allen socket and a 5' cheater pipe. Do not use a ratchet. I do NOT recommend getting your tools at Hobo Freight, at least for this job.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Have you actually done this? I tried this urban legend myself while having my T panel off and it's not true. There remains too much twist, vertical is nowhere near enough, it would have to be hyperextended backwards to the balance limit like in Dickey's picture to work.

There are only three or four adjustment options available in the splines that will result in a usable door at, say 75F. You would have droopy doors unless you use very strong pistons sitting in the sun in order to have the bar slide out even past vertical.

For the hell of it I tried many adjustments just to see and it doesn't work. I think Bill Robertson has been spreading this legend.

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Yes I have done it on both doors. I think I'm the original owner that posted this first. I did this about 20 years ago after the group at a tech event could not get the bracket off. They even scratched the rear glass.

[82DMC12]

Yes I have done it on both doors. I think I'm the original owner that posted this first. I did this about 20 years ago after the group at a tech event could not get the bracket off.

I'm sure you had assistance to make sure the door didn't tip over backwards on the roof and disconnected the wire harness first? I was not interested in testing that limit and certainly would not advise someone who's never done it before that "it'll just slip out". The two man job with brace makes it pretty easy while still respecting the inherent danger to body and car.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm sure you had assistance to make sure the door didn't tip over backwards on the roof and disconnected the wire harness first? I was not interested in testing that limit and certainly would not advise someone who's never done it before that "it'll just slip out". The two man job with brace makes it pretty easy while still respecting the inherent danger to body and car.

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I only opened vertical. So a long support pole to keep it from closing. I did this all alone.

[82DMC12]

I only opened vertical. So a long support pole to keep it from closing. I did this all alone.

These two marks indicate how much twist remains in the bar at the show door position. The door would have to be far beyond vertical to remove the bar without the spline plate. It's possible the bars could lose power over the years but if I had followed that advice I'd have damaged my car. In the end I detuned my bar by one tooth because it was too strong in the middle of summer with the sun beating on the car.

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[Rich]

Answer: ~60ft-lb of torque is transmitted from the torsion bar splines into the plate with the door propped open and the plate bolts still threaded at least partially into the roof. This is why the plate refuses to slide backward so far.

I need to adjust the torsion bar on the passenger side door. It is opening a little too quickly and bouncing a bit at the top.

With the door propped open, how much torsion is left in the bar? I can't open it any more or it hits the T-panel.

Do not remove the plate without first counteracting that torque, even if you somehow could manage to slide the plate off first.

Get the proper tools and instructions before attempting this job. And find an assistant.

With the correct info and equipment you will get the the plate off. You will then also be able to get the plate back ON, something your approach so far doesn't allow for. In other words, you'll need to do the job the normal way for the adjustment and for putting it back together.

[Carbuilder]

Yeah, it is a simple one man job unless you aim to have someone take pictures/video while you're doing it. All in from the jump you're looking at 10 minutes on the upper end.

You're right. Once the louvered panel was off and the other plastic piece to expose the torsion bar retaining plate, and once I knew what I was doing, about 5 minutes to get the torsion bar adjusted. Didn't bother with a wooden jig, removing the T-panel, or helper (I really like to work alone whenever I can). Took the torque off the torsion bar with a pipe over the handle of a 1/2" flex handle, removed the bolts, let the torsion relax by one tooth, and put the plate back on. Door works beautifully now.

Also, OP, are you seriously trying to remove the torsion bar with the gas strut in place?

No, I wasn't removing the torsion bar, just adjusting it by one tooth.

Answer: ~60ft-lb of torque is transmitted from the torsion bar splines into the plate with the door propped open

Yes, it seemed like about that much. Much more than I expected. Glad I had the pipe over the socket handle.

In the end, with the help/advice from here, it all went smoothly.

Rick

[82DMC12]

No, I wasn't removing the torsion bar, just adjusting it by one tooth.

Same thing, it cannot be done the way you were trying to do it. Have you priced out how much a new rear window costs?


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