FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 87

Thread: Eagle Premier Starter

  1. #1
    Rick/AKA.. DA BEARD congerz83's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Congers NY

    Posts:    188

    My VIN:    SCEDT26T5BD06996

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Eagle Premier Starter

    Has anyone upgraded to the Eagle Premier starter? I'd like to do this because my stater is starting to go, and I would like to have a stater that actually sounds like it belongs on a car and not a ride-on mower.'

    If anyone has upgraded, what did you do? Just a simple swap? Did you like the results?

    I spoke with DPI Josh about this earlier, but I thought why not put this before everyone so we can have this topic on the site for others to find later...
    "He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
    - William Shakespeare

  2. #2
    Current custodian of 2109 Ozzie's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Orlando, FL

    Posts:    438

    My VIN:    2109

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Yup, on my last project, a starter change/upgrade was one of those 'while you're in there' jobs. See pic below, OEM and 1990 Eagle Premier (Dodge Monaco) side by side; that wire with the pin socket was the only mod, otherwise it blots right in.



    Differences:
    1) Smaller and lighter.
    2) On a lower voltage battery the stock (original 29 year old) starter would crank a few times before it would catch. This newer one is much more robust on a lower weaker battery, and makes the engine fire up right away on a well charged battery.
    3) Sounds cooler too, the original sort of sounds like a coffee grinder, this was has a modern "FHZZZZZT"-like sound - but again you'll only hear that on a weak battery condition.
    4) I think it has less torque, but spins faster than the OEM, which is the difference in sounds.
    5) Two words: Lifetime warranty. Rebuilds seem to have an iffy history with the Autozone and such, but so far so good.

    Installation: I had the (Stage I) headers out, so it was super easy to put in, otherwise it would have been very challenging to remove/replace. I don't think a stock setup would be as challenging, but am not sure. If I do ever have to replace this (or "when"), I'm hoping the smaller size will allow me to do so, without removing the headers.




    EDIT:
    Someone please verify the hook up of the wire/pin extension above. I am fairly certain that is how it went in, but it would be good to have a second verification or correction.

    EDIT 2:
    Dang. I should have put me smirking, in 3/4 of the picture above.

    EDIT 3:
    For those reading in the future: Edit 2 was sarcasm based on recent events here at the forum.
    Last edited by Ozzie; 11-07-2011 at 08:44 PM. Reason: Double check.
    Personal Blog: DeLorean Ownership & Upkeep (Yeah, it hasn't been updated in a while, but some good stuff there if you look.)
    ->Last posting:"Smooth shifting on a 30+ year old car."
    ->Most read posting:"Going 100% LEDs on your car is a good idea, and more feasible than ever."

  3. #3
    Rick/AKA.. DA BEARD congerz83's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Congers NY

    Posts:    188

    My VIN:    SCEDT26T5BD06996

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    I don't thnk I'd be able to find one of those pin fittings at Home Depot..... hmmmm.
    "He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
    - William Shakespeare

  4. #4
    Current custodian of 2109 Ozzie's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Orlando, FL

    Posts:    438

    My VIN:    2109

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by congerz83 View Post
    I don't thnk I'd be able to find one of those pin fittings at Home Depot..... hmmmm.
    You can cannibalize it from the OEM starter (as a soldered splice with heat shrink tubing), or go to Radio Shack and get a new one.
    Personal Blog: DeLorean Ownership & Upkeep (Yeah, it hasn't been updated in a while, but some good stuff there if you look.)
    ->Last posting:"Smooth shifting on a 30+ year old car."
    ->Most read posting:"Going 100% LEDs on your car is a good idea, and more feasible than ever."

  5. #5
    Senior Member uhhair's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  PA

    Posts:    410

    My VIN:    2681

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    We have upgraded to the starter. It is a higher-pitched sound, but it definitely catches quicker than the old one did, and it's given us no issues since replacing it. It bolts right on, it's available from the major vendors, and the price is pretty reasonable. Unless you really have issues with your car staying all original, I'd definitely recommend doing it.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    1,313

    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    Quote Originally Posted by uhhair View Post
    We have upgraded to the starter. It is a higher-pitched sound, but it definitely catches quicker than the old one did, and it's given us no issues since replacing it. It bolts right on, it's available from the major vendors, and the price is pretty reasonable. Unless you really have issues with your car staying all original, I'd definitely recommend doing it.
    +1 Have one on my car - working great for 4+ years. Picked up another one for my wife's car a few years later but have not gotten around to installing it yet. You can also pick up that connector (its called a bullet connector in these parts) at any car stereo installation shop - they may give it to you free, if not give them $2 for two of them in case you don't crimp the first one on to your liking.

    I think the one I got actually has and draws more power than oem, but it likely draws less power than a 30 year old one unless your solenoid has been rebuilt.

  7. #7
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    443

    I upgraded when mine died.

    It sounds cooler, weighs less, is easier to find and WAY easier to install, and is the same price or less as an OEM unit. Really no reason NOT to do it, in my opinion.
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  8. #8
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,000

    My VIN:    03572

    Interesting that mine has the starter solenoid rotated 180 deg from Ozzie's photo. So my small wire terminal is beside the engine block. I just jumpered the white/red and blue/yellow wires together to keep the start resistor bypass working. I would think using the starter power wire would short circuit that resistor bypass but it looks like people have it working that way.

    Edit:
    Just remembered about the starter bypass relay not shown on the schmeatic. So using the starter power wire will work.
    Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 11-08-2011 at 04:35 AM.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #9
    Rick/AKA.. DA BEARD congerz83's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Congers NY

    Posts:    188

    My VIN:    SCEDT26T5BD06996

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    I just had my car on a lift for about 5 minutes. Can the starter be removed with conventional hand-tools? It looks like the bolts are hard to access. Do I need a really long extension?
    "He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
    - William Shakespeare

  10. #10
    Rick/AKA.. DA BEARD congerz83's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Congers NY

    Posts:    188

    My VIN:    SCEDT26T5BD06996

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    The service book says I can unbolt from the front?
    "He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
    - William Shakespeare

Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •