Eagle Premier Starter

[82DMC12]

Hey guys,

I did get the O'Reilly Ultima starter installed and it's working GREAT. I'm really glad I upgraded while I had the engine out.

At first, I followed some instructions that another owner gave me which was authored by DPNW stating to put the red/white wire and the blue/yellow wire onto the same small post on the new starter. I did exactly that, and then connected my battery, ready to start the car for the first time since doing my frame-off restoration. The car started well but after the exhaust started to warm up I saw a bit of smoke/vapor which was probably just anti-seize burning off but I wanted to be sure so I turned off the key, however then found the starter was still spinning! I disconnected the battery which of course ended that. I waited for the exhaust to cool while looking at this thread where I see the blue/yellow is shown going to the big post that the black starter wire is on. So, I cut the small terminal off the bullet connector (blue/yellow) and put a larger ring terminal on, put it on the bigger terminal, kept the red/white on the small terminal, and re-connected the battery. Now it works perfectly.

Can anyone explain the difference? Maybe the starter the franchises were selling is not the same as the Eagle Premier starter?

Anyway, all good now but I like to understand why things go wrong.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The blue/yellow wire powers the half of the ignition resistor but I don't have the ignition relay setup on my schematic. Check to be sure you resistors are not powered all the time.

I never connected that blue/yellow wire and had no problems starting the car. I've since eliminated the resistors anyway.

[Timeless]

Add me to the list of the happy owners with the Eagle Remy starter. Installed it recently and love it.

[82DMC12]

The blue/yellow wire powers the half of the ignition resistor but I don't have the ignition relay setup on my schematic. Check to be sure you resistors are not powered all the time.

I never connected that blue/yellow wire and had no problems starting the car. I've since eliminated the resistors anyway.

Dave,

I forgot about this thread as I got busy with other stuff on my car. However, on Facebook another owner just installed this Eagle Premier starter and he has both yellow/blue and red/white on the same small stud. He claims the starter works fine.

I hooked my starter up the same way that Ron posted in post #60 and it does work however I have never looked at the blue/yellow wire on my ignition resister to see if it is powered all the time. Are you saying the blue/yellow should only have +12 when cranking? Or should it be dead when cranking? When is blue/yellow supposed to be live?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave,

I forgot about this thread as I got busy with other stuff on my car. However, on Facebook another owner just installed this Eagle Premier starter and he has both yellow/blue and red/white on the same small stud. He claims the starter works fine.

I hooked my starter up the same way that Ron posted in post #60 and it does work however I have never looked at the blue/yellow wire on my ignition resister to see if it is powered all the time. Are you saying the blue/yellow should only have +12 when cranking? Or should it be dead when cranking? When is blue/yellow supposed to be live?

I'm not sure since I don't have the resistors anymore. But my guess is the resistor bypass circuit needs to see 12 volts only when cranking. The white/red is only 12 volts when cranking but does not float when not cranking. The blue/yellow did provide 12 volts when cranking and did float when not cranking.

[82DMC12]

I'm not sure since I don't have the resistors anymore. But my guess is the resistor bypass circuit needs to see 12 volts only when cranking. The white/red is only 12 volts when cranking but does not float when not cranking. The blue/yellow did provide 12 volts when cranking and did float when not cranking.

Hi Dave,

What do you mean by "float"?

I just checked my car blue-yellow wire at the ignition resistors (disconnected and checking the female spade) and confirmed that I don't have +12 when the key is OFF and I don't have +12 when the car is running which sounds correct. I will need a test light to see if I have power to it when cranking (will check tonight). But of course when I plug the wire back onto the resistor, I have 12V because it's getting that from the resistor.

I guess that doesn't really matter because the starter relay prevents that +12 from going "backwards" to the starter motor itself. Am I right about that?

[Ron]

The Eagle setup doesn't have a (R)esistor terminal to feed the Blue/Yellow wire like the OEM unit does (a 2nd small spade terminal/pigtail).
But the OEM solenoid feeds the starter motor's input terminal at the same time as it does the (R)esistor terminal, so it's OK to put the Blue/Yellow on the Eagle's motor feed terminal.
It would also work by putting the Blue/Yellow to the White/Red, BUT, a hung/shorted/bad ignition relay could allow the starter to engage/hang when the key was turned to the run position...me thinks.

[82DMC12]

The Eagle setup doesn't have a (R)esistor terminal to feed the Blue/Yellow wire like the OEM unit does (a 2nd small spade terminal/pigtail).
But the OEM solenoid feeds the starter motor's input terminal at the same time as it does the (R)esistor terminal, so it's OK to put the Blue/Yellow on the Eagle's motor feed terminal.
It would also work by putting the Blue/Yellow to the White/Red, BUT, a hung/shorted/bad ignition relay could allow the starter to engage/hang when the key was turned to the run position...me thinks.

So, a couple thoughts/questions I have about that.

1. If the resistor bypass relay (the relay on the firewall below the resistors) got stuck closed, would the blue/yellow wire cause the starter to operate without turning the ignition key? It seems like it would since it can feed 12V from the ignition resistor backwards to the starter motor terminal.

2. If that is true, would a diode be recommended to install on the blue/yellow to totally prevent that possibility?

3. Does the red/white terminal operate exactly the same with the Eagle starter as it does the original Paris Rhone unit? I have an issue where sometimes the car cranks longer than it should when stone cold and I wonder if I have an issue with red/white circuit (TTS and CSV).

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hi Dave,

What do you mean by "float"?

Float means "open circuit" or "infinity for ohms".

[Ron]

So, a couple thoughts/questions I have about that.

1. If the resistor bypass relay (the relay on the firewall below the resistors) got stuck closed, would the blue/yellow wire cause the starter to operate without turning the ignition key? It seems like it would since it can feed 12V from the ignition resistor backwards to the starter motor terminal.

2. If that is true, would a diode be recommended to install on the blue/yellow to totally prevent that possibility?

3. Does the red/white terminal operate exactly the same with the Eagle starter as it does the original Paris Rhone unit? I have an issue where sometimes the car cranks longer than it should when stone cold and I wonder if I have an issue with red/white circuit (TTS and CSV).

1. No. For OEM, there would be no power to any of it if the ignition key wasn't turned on. (The White wire from Aux Relay 2 would be dead since the Aux relay is off. Note that there are two Blue/Yellow wires at that relay, and they are not connected together. The Blue/Yellow wire coming from the solenoid would not have anything on it because the solenoid would not be engaged. And the other Blue/White at he relay would not have anything on it coming from the resistors.)
Same for when someone taps the White/Red wire at the solenoid with the Eagle, since the White/Red wire will not have power when the key is off.

2. It's not. But, as said, I think things can get fouled up when the key is at on/run and the relay is stuck shut...
Put the Blue/Yellow wire at the starter on the terminal that goes from the solenoid to the starter motor (like in post 30 ;-).

3. Yes (There is a copper disk inside the solenoid that connects the two together while the starter is engaged.)
FWIW- The Big 3 and a lot of foreign starter solenoids have a "R" and a "S" marked on them when they reduce power to the coil. (R)esistor (S)olenoid.


With the key turned to off, if the relay stuck closed, the Blue/White wire at the relay going to the resistors, would get feed from the White wire coming from the Aux. relay 2. The Blue/White wire at the relay going to the Starter solenoid would be grounded through the relay's engage coil and open at the starter solenoid (floating) on an OEM setup. But