Like the title says, I'm needing a fuel tank closing plate in good shape. If anyone has one for sale, feel free to PM me.
Like the title says, I'm needing a fuel tank closing plate in good shape. If anyone has one for sale, feel free to PM me.
Nathan D.
Current owner of #1800 - June '81, Black Interior, Manual, LS4 V8 swapped
Former owner of #3455 - Twin Turbo - Aug '81, Custom Interior, Manual
Former owner of #2923 - The "Cornfield" DeLorean - Aug '81, Black Interior, Automatic
Former owner of #5788 - Oct '81, Grey Interior, Manual
YouTube - "Going Broke Garage"
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
We offer a stainless steel version if you are interested. I have started producing these because the mild steel ones are starting to see better days. Let me know if you would like more information.
Our next batch should be ready mid December. I couldn't find one fabricator to do everything so it goes to three different local shops between the laser cutting, folding, side channel press work etc.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
Nathan D.
Current owner of #1800 - June '81, Black Interior, Manual, LS4 V8 swapped
Former owner of #3455 - Twin Turbo - Aug '81, Custom Interior, Manual
Former owner of #2923 - The "Cornfield" DeLorean - Aug '81, Black Interior, Automatic
Former owner of #5788 - Oct '81, Grey Interior, Manual
YouTube - "Going Broke Garage"
I'm also interested in a S/S fuel tank closing plate as long as it matches the factory look with the drain channels, etc. From your description it sounds like it does.
Grady has the stainless closing plate that looks like the original one.
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 3,385
My VIN: thirty two 'o five
Club(s): (PNDC)
I'm looking for options here.
I cannot find anything at DMC, DPI or Grady be it stainless, oem/nos or otherwise.
I've found rust damage to part of 2510s closing plate and I'd like to try and figure out if it would be more cost effective to repair my current one or buy a new one.
Cheers!
Dave
Here, somewhere.
I really wanted a stainless fuel tank closing plate with the correct stamped drain channels and center relief stamped section but the vendor that PJ Grady was having these made no longer supplies them. It doesn't sound like the tooling exists anymore at that particular vendor either.
NOS mild steel ftcp's don't seem to be available anywhere either, so at the moment your best option would be to repair your original rusty one with POR 15. I ended up going this route and I can post a few pictures later.
Otherwise Josh from DPI may be able to give us an update on when new SS ftcp's will be available. As of earlier this year I think he was having stainless works produce some for him.
If your current plate is completely rusted through and not able to be repaired you could get a good used one through one of the vendors, otherwise as a last resort hervey has some aluminum ones.
Location: South Texas
Posts: 849
I know someone who, according to him can make those fuel tank plates in SS with the correct drain channels and even a logo if needed.
In order for him to proceed, he will need a "loaner" so he could take measurements.
We also need to know how much people is willing to pay and for last, we need enough people interested in this.
No money would be required in advance but yes, we need to know if enough people want to buy this product, depending on the price, we may need at least 40 people, tooling is not cheap.
LEVY
I would work extra hard at whatever I was doing to become so good at it and that I would never have to kiss anyone's fanny to keep my job. And I never have and I never will.
John Z. De Lorean
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 3,385
My VIN: thirty two 'o five
Club(s): (PNDC)
Replace or repair?
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-bonus marks for using the phrase "like a debonaire Henry Kissinger" in context.
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Dave
Here, somewhere.
Location: Atlanta-ish
Posts: 2,218
My VIN: 5311
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Ouch. That looks a bit deeper than surface rust, but in the off chance I'm wrong I'd always go for repair before replace. Sandblast the fuck out of it, smooth it out and repaint it.
EDIT: Whoops, just caught the holes. Looks like it's already been repainted once. Yeah I'd go for a replacement. Ditch that thing.
- Chris
what