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Thread: How to Remove Fuel Distributor form Mixture Unit

  1. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2016

    Posts:    13

    This is great!! Thank you SO much. It came in super handy yesterday when I got down to the VOD.

    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    It is very doable to get to the VOD without removing all the fuel lines. You only need to remove the fuel feed line (from the fuel filter) and the fuel return line (back to the tank). To get to the VOD, here is what I do assuming everything comes apart just nicely -


    1. Disconnect battery (technically not required but good practice otherwise)
    2. Remove air filter box
    3. Remove W-pipe
    4. Remove electrical plugs from the cold start valve, control pressure regulator, idle speed motor, and frequency valve
    5. Disconnect two wires from the back of the idle speed microswitch
    6. Remove throttle linkage arm from the throttle body (the part that touches the idle speed microswitch)
    7. Remove throttle bracket with spool and arm attached and set aside (no need to remove the throttle wire if you're OK setting the bracket out of the way). Don't forget to disconnect the full throttle switch and the kickdown (if auto trans)
    8. Remove idle motor by unscrewing the two allen cap screws that hold the idle motor mounting ring to the bracket on the driver side of the intake. Loosen the ring around the motor and remove the ring. Remove the idle motor from the pipe of pain and the rear of the cold start valve.
    9. Slide the pipe of pain out of the air meter unit
    10. Disconnect cold start valve from the cold start pipe (2 allen cap screws)
    11. Remove the vacuum advance canister from the rear of the air meter unit
    12. Remove two allen cap screws that hold the CPR to the driver side valve cover. Disconnect the vacuum line source at the Tee.
    13. Remove vacuum lines (small) from driver side rear intake manifold and (large) from passenger side rear intake manifold. Remove carbon canister vacuum line from under the air meter (front of the meter)
    14. Disconnect two grounds from the top driver side of the intake manifold and one from the side of the passenger side intake manifold
    15. Remove fuel feed line from back of fuel distributor. Thread the hollow bolt and copper washers a few threads back into the FD so you don't lose them.
    16. Remove fuel return line from side of fuel distributor. Put the hollow bolt and washer back into the FD, in order, with the frequency valve line attached, a few threads so you don't lose them. Do not screw in all the way!
    17. Remove the two allen cap screws that hold the S-brackets for the air meter to the intake manifold
    18. Unseat the injectors from their holes, leaving the boots and clips on the injectors
    19. Pile the Control pressure regulator, six injectors, and frequency valve onto the throttle body area and make sure they are not wrapped around spark plug wires or other hoses, etc.
    20. Lift the thottle body and completely air meter house with injectors, etc as one unit and set aside
    21. Disconnect any clips that hold the engine wiring harness to the intake manifold
    22. Remove the cold start valve pipe from the center of the intake manifold and set it aside
    23. Remove four screws that hold the intake manifold to the engine and lift it out, maneuvering around the engine wiring harness


    That should about do it - do this three or four times in your life and you can do all this in about 30 minutes! Actually not a terrible idea to clean out the valley every three or four years and do a cooling system pressure check.

    Attachment 68583

  2. #12
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,104

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by Rokkinlen View Post
    This is great!! Thank you SO much. It came in super handy yesterday when I got down to the VOD.
    You're welcome! Did I miss anything? It was all off memory :-)
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    244

    My VIN:    02855

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    You can buy quality 7mm hex bolts in standard zinc and yellow zinc here

    https://belmetric.com/m7x1-0-coarse-...hex-bolts-8-8/

  4. #14
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,104

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by mark w View Post
    You can buy quality 7mm hex bolts in standard zinc and yellow zinc here

    https://belmetric.com/m7x1-0-coarse-...hex-bolts-8-8/
    Thanks Mark! Great website... When you order the length, is that the shank only, or does it include the cap (so overall length is measured)?

    Andy
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

  5. #15
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,366

    My VIN:    6125

    Hex head bolts are measured from the bottom of the head to the end of the fastener. Same is true for socket head cap screws, button head screws, etc. In general, you're measuring from the surface where the fastener will be installed to the end of the fastener.

    For flat head countersunk screws, you would measure to the top of the head since it sits flush with the material.

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