I stalled DPNW fans today. took 3.5 hours but easy overall.
I stalled DPNW fans today. took 3.5 hours but easy overall.
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 47
My VIN: 3743
Installed PJ Grady's one piece speedometer cable. This replaces the lower speedo cable, upper cable, and lambda box. I bought it because the lower speedo cable I bought from a different vendor snapped in half inside the jacket with no clear explanation why. There is no binding in any other component and I had lubricated the cable with a small amount of KABLE-EASE because for some reason it was supplied to me totally dry inside. It didn't even last 500 miles, it just snapped inside with no warning.
Anyway, the new Grady cable is an easy install if you have ever removed the binnacle before. Less than an hour later I was test driving the car and my speedometer needle is smoother than it has been in 23 years. Very happy with the purchase.
Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 47
My VIN: 3743
Cooling system upgrades & some DPI stainless & billet goodies. In addition, a screw in otterstat pipe and silicone radiator connections.
radiator DMCH.jpgDPI fans.jpgDPI SS brackets & cam covers.jpg
~LXA~
Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry
Last night I decided to fix a very slight seepage from my differential adjusting nut. If you've been following me, you might recall I recently finished a frame replacement and during that process I re-sealed the transmission and basically gave it a 40-year check up. I confirmed the leak with a UV light but felt comfortable enough with how the adjusting nut works that I wasn't worried about removing it and applying some hylomar to it. I was lucky enough to score a Kent Moore UN1 adjusting nut tool which you turn with a 1/2" ratchet. I used a paint pen to mark the diff nut and took a photo of the position of the clip relative to the M8 screw so that I was sure I had nut back in the same position it was in prior to removal. I also set the parking brake so that the differential would not turn while working. The whole process took less than hour and my test drive went fine. I'll continue to monitor but I'd be extremely surprised if it still leaks now.
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Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City
Location: Central Georgia
Posts: 28
My VIN: 3880
That's heart breaking. I own several hot rods, some quite fast (quarter mile) and visually impressive, but the DeLorean is by far the most fun car I own to drive. Not because it's a technological powerhouse, but because of it's... "status", so to speak. Almost everyone has seen those movies, but the vast majority (at least in middle GA) have never actually SEEN a DeLorean. Literally EVERY time I take that car out, I have people honking, giving the thumbs up, etc. Almost every time I've stopped for gas, people walk up and ask if I mind if they have a look. I've had several ask me if I minded if they took pictures. Hang onto that car. I have cars that will make a fool of it technically, but that's one of the most fun cars you'll ever drive.
I'M BACK!
That said..finally replacing the radiator and AC. Yanked out the full cooling assembly today. Much easier if you take the bumper off (and your AC is evacuated so you can simply disconnect the whole thing as one). I think I may just grab a new condenser and fans now that I have the whole thing off. Next step is the compressor, hoses, and accumulator. Goal being RC134a after all is said and done.
Didn't know I was supposed to set the tie rod pre-tension to a certain amount last time I had the rack out, so the result was a bit of play in the rack/steering wheel especially noticeable at high speed.
I took the rack out again and drilled out the pins, replaced the springs and cups with new parts from Grady, then tightened the outer silver nut until I had about 5 lbs force required to pull the tie rod through an upward arc (measured with a spring scale). Repeated on both sides, reinstalled the rack, and now no more play in the steering AT ALL. Smooth as butter and tighter than a gnat's ass.
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Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City