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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #9001
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    A week ago, but forgot to post. Installed DPI Josh’s new injector clamps. Awesome designed little part. Went in without too much trouble, though I had to smooth out the stamped part numbers on the injector to make them fit. And of course cylinders 4/5/6 are a pain in the butt to access.

    I’ve had a small vacuum leak around injector #5 for a long, long time now - these sealed it right up! And I’ll never pop an injector on start again (it’s happened 3 times in the 12 years I’ve owned the car)






    Also, I installed the plunger seals around the rear induction vents. Went on super easy and look great. Very happy with the results.



    And then, topped up the brake fluid. The reservoir had dropped some due to pad wear, and the dash light started coming on. Good thing that sensor still works.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  2. #9002
    TNDMC Founder JBaker4981's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cookeville, TN

    Posts:    321

    My VIN:    628

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    Also, I installed the plunger seals around the rear induction vents. Went on super easy and look great. Very happy with the results.

    That looks great! As an early car steward, I am also missing these and have always wondered if something went there. I never could find it in the parts manual the one time I did look.
    What part number was it if you dont mind?
    Jesse Baker
    VIN 628
    Black Interior, Automatic
    TNDMC: TN DeLorean Motor Club

  3. #9003
    Daily Driver ssdelorean's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  NW Ohio

    Posts:    458

    My VIN:    16506

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by JBaker4981 View Post
    That looks great! As an early car steward, I am also missing these and have always wondered if something went there. I never could find it in the parts manual the one time I did look.
    What part number was it if you dont mind?

    See back a couple pages to post 8981 here.
    Shannon Y
    www.ohiodeloreans.com
    www.facebook.com/ohiodeloreans
    ---
    1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) -- original
    2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) -- original from donor
    3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) -- DMCH
    4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) -- DMCH
    5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) -- DMCH
    6th angle drive - OVER 113,704 miles and counting (OVER 13 yr 1 month & counting) -- new Martin Gutkowski unit
    over 245K miles

  4. #9004
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by JBaker4981 View Post
    That looks great! As an early car steward, I am also missing these and have always wondered if something went there. I never could find it in the parts manual the one time I did look.
    What part number was it if you dont mind?
    Yeah, lmao someone already replied but - there is no P/N for these anymore. They're literally off a plunger.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Mini...X311/302136270

    Buy 2 of those, pull the black rings off, make a clean straight slit so they can be opened - then just pop them around the induction vents. Perfect match.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  5. #9005
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.

    Posts:    2,072

    My VIN:    0934

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by JBaker4981 View Post
    That looks great! As an early car steward, I am also missing these and have always wondered if something went there. I never could find it in the parts manual the one time I did look.
    What part number was it if you dont mind?
    P/N 106693

    The OE part is called a Sponge Ring. Shown as Item 21 in this diagram.

    The early cars had them as far as I know. They just weren’t made to last. They turn soft and flatten out, then pull away from the tube they surrounded looking very sad. Until somebody removes them or covers them up as shown in this thread. These plunger rings look legit.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  6. #9006
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2016

    Location:  Austin MN

    Posts:    579

    My VIN:    03500

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    P/N 106693

    The OE part is called a Sponge Ring. Shown as Item 21 in this diagram.

    The early cars had them as far as I know. They just weren’t made to last. They turn soft and flatten out, then pull away from the tube they surrounded looking very sad. Until somebody removes them or covers them up as shown in this thread. These plunger rings look legit.
    My car someone took masking tape painted it black and put around it.



    Dave B.

  7. #9007
    TNDMC Founder JBaker4981's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cookeville, TN

    Posts:    321

    My VIN:    628

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Wow! Thank you guys! This is why I still love DMC Talk...
    Jesse Baker
    VIN 628
    Black Interior, Automatic
    TNDMC: TN DeLorean Motor Club

  8. #9008
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,234

    I replaced my fuel filter today. The old filter was replaced when I first got the car a couple years ago. It was a sitting car and I had alot of work on the fuel system. I cleaned the tank as best I could without removing it from the car. Anybody that has done this knows it’s difficult to get a perfect job. Obviously, I didn’t get all the junk out because the car began running rough. Changed the filter and now it seems to be back to normal. I’m hoping that’s the last of it. I’m sort of worried about that junk going through the new fuel pump.

    Whole the car was up on jack stands, I changed the clutch slave cylinder. That also seems to be working right now. I might be making a 700 mile trip soon, so I need to get some confidence in the car again.

    Curious observation, when the car was running rough, it seem much louder. I really thought the muffler (DPI) was blown out. But after I got it running better, it seems back to normal. The muffler is discolored somewhat in the center which had me worried. I don’t care about the looks, but I thought it might have burnt out some baffles or something. I could probably polish it out, but again, I don’t really care about the looks under the hood.

  9. #9009
    Junior Member paul_haga's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minneapolis, MN

    Posts:    8

    My VIN:    1981 Gas Flap Manual Transmission Black Interior Stage II Engine Eibach Suspension

    Recently I noticed an overheating issue starting, so I clocked a couple hours last night bleeding the cooling system. Always fun watching the Champaign bubbles vacate the system. Fans are cycling nicely and the temp is holding where it needs to be.
    Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results... -Albert Einstein

  10. #9010
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Maple Grove, MN (Minneapolis)

    Posts:    1,422

    My VIN:    05457

    Installed Footwell Lighting

    Followed Chris' suggested footwell lighting instructions and finally set this up! I used similar cheap Chinese LED boards, $17 total cost for LEDs and related wiring hardware. Have white ones installed now, but will likely also buy the RGB variant, for less than $10, that I can plug into the new wiring I've installed and see how well they work as well.

    I used piggyback spade connectors to connect to the power (glove box) and ground (left side of blue driver's diode) so I didn't even need to tap into existing wiring! To undo this all I have to do is unplug it and pull the short wire harness I made out.

    20230102_163051.jpg

    For those interested, this is the LED board I used, picture for reference after the link goes dead in a couple years:
    61Dy9hU0lTL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
    David Proehl

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