What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Quinn]

First, my AC started acting funny. Then, my heater stopped working. Finally, I could hear the fan running, but no air was blowing out the vents. So I reluctantly dug into the mode switch for a second time, after just rebuilding it less than 3 years ago. Turns out, the four little nubs on the back of the rubber piece had broken off, so the thing was just randomly spinning around whenever I'd use the switch. I used some weatherstrip glue to glue the rubber piece back in place. Everything seems to be working now. Of course I had to replace a couple of fuses that blew in the process of making the repair, because I got in a hurry and didn't disconnect the battery.

[L3V3L1]

Re-Installed my newly recovered binnacle. I am very happy with the way it came out. I paid my local upholstery guy 100 bucks to apply the DMCH recover kit.

[81dmc]

3.0 engine is complete minus intake manifold. Got valves adjusted again (just to be sure) and installed the rocker covers.

Also cleaned up auto trans (40 years of grease) and sucked the old fluid out.

The shift cable was found to be leaking where the outer sheath meets the metal ends. So to fix, I cleaned with brake clean, dabbed some Permatex RTV on the joint, and used marine grade heat shrink to finish the seal. Shouldn’t leak and didn’t cost me the $150 DMCH wants for an "improved" cable.

Now I just need to mate that engine/trans, and drop the combo in the car.

My car has been engineless since 2018 so I’m quite excited!

[81dmc]

Mated.

2324DAE6-A40B-4644-B427-C3BB58B7B5CF.jpg

[OZ DMC]

working behind the fuel distributor against the firewall think I may have disconnected the line that comes from the left side of the bulkhead (marked in red in the photo)
What does it do and where does it connect.

Many thanks
OzDMC

[Lenny]

I did the rarest of maintenance jobs. I pulled the battery and checked the levels. I know you won’t believe me without pictures so here you goB139CBFD-D62F-4AA4-86F7-DC6A46AD238D.jpg

[AugustneverEnds]

working behind the fuel distributor against the firewall think I may have disconnected the line that comes from the left side of the bulkhead (marked in red in the photo)
What does it do and where does it connect.

Many thanks
OzDMC

That is a vacuum hose, connects to the hot water control valve, this thing https://store.delorean.com/hot-water...termarket.html

[OZ DMC]

That is a vacuum hose, connects to the hot water control valve, this thing https://store.delorean.com/hot-water...termarket.html

Thanks Nick for that response, cheers

[AugustneverEnds]

Happy to help!

[CyberBill]

Working on ripping the guts out of the DeLorean this week.

The goal is to remove the entire wiring harness and make room for the electronics from the Bolt for my EV conversion - Project Lightning. After the first day (yesterday) the seats are removed, the center console is removed, all wires are disconnected from the rear passenger side but still sitting in there, stereo and climate controls are removed, the driver's side knee pads and steering wheel and binnacle are removed, then I removed the pedal box. The brake booster mount has been removed, too.

After today, I've removed the passenger side knee-pad and disconnect the blower and stuff, and then remove the lambda ECU, idle speed ECU, and ignition ECU, and the brackets and wires behind the driver's seat. I removed the bungee cord and mesh, then the carpet, and then the little piece of wood in the middle of the parcel shelf. That allowed me to take all the wires from the cubbies behind the seat and pull them all out and into the driver's side where the seat usually is. What makes this a bit more complicated is that there are clearly a lot of modifications that have been done to the wiring harness like adding speaker wire all over the place and some sort of immobilizer wiring, so I did end up cutting a couple of those rather than removing the side panels to get at the speakers.

Under the hood I have to make room for a large battery box that interferes with the stock brake booster - and since I kind of hate the stock location of the pedals anyway, I'm going to replace them with the pedal "box" from the Bolt and shift the brake location to the driver's side quite a bit, and also I'll use the iBooster from the Bolt, which will (fingers crossed) fix all the issues at once. I'll definitely need to do something interesting for the Bolt's master cylinder - because it's rotated 90 degrees from the most optimal placement of the iBooster unit. I might also skip the Bolt's master cylinder and use the stock one from one of the other vehicles out there that uses a Gen1 iBooster and happens to be oriented more to my liking.

At the moment the only thing keeping the wiring harness in the car is the wires that run through the firewall along the driver's side to the front lights and stuff - which I didn't know how to remove. In looking it up this evening, it appears I can remove a box that contains the windshield washer fluid reservoir and probably get access to the harness from there and disconnect it and pull it through into the cabin. I may also remove the carpets and scrape off that foam padding on the parcel shelf, which smells terrible.

Once gutted, I'll be taking the body off the frame for a couple of hours to remove the remaining fuel lines, brake booster vacuum line that run between the body and frame, and get the shifter linkage out. I think from that point forward I will be doing a whole lot more fabricating and building and putting things together, rather than taking things apart, so it sort of feels like the beginning of a new chapter for the conversion.