Pipe of Agony O-Ring and Securing Ring Prep?

[Morpheus]

Now that we know how to get the pipe in, what's the proper orientation of the pipe? Angled-cut side up in the mix unit?

[82DMC12]

Now that we know how to get the pipe in, what's the proper orientation of the pipe? Angled-cut side up in the mix unit?

Yes. I think the last time I put one in I had the idle motor removed. I put the pipe in first, then lined it up with the motor, all the while peering in through the meter plate to make sure the pipe was still in place. It's frustrating for sure.

Andy

[Szabi]

Hello, can you confirm the copper ring and the o-ring can be found on the outer side of the mixture unit only? When checking the idle regulator recently, the pipe came out easily from the mixture unit, and even though I put it back together with the brass ring and o-ring, now the car stalls a few seconds after starting. I asked Ed, who says "102771 inside, stick a brass ring with the rubber o ring."
102771 is the lower part of the mixture control unit, so if I understand correctly, he suggests disassembling the mixture unit and apply the same ring+ o-ring inside as from outside (???).

Also, someone in another thread mentioned that Loctite would keep the copper ring in its place. Which Loctite would work here? What is the temperature it has to bear with?

[David T]

Hello, can you confirm the copper ring and the o-ring can be found on the outer side of the mixture unit only? When checking the idle regulator recently, the pipe came out easily from the mixture unit, and even though I put it back together with the brass ring and o-ring, now the car stalls a few seconds after starting. I asked Ed, who says "102771 inside, stick a brass ring with the rubber o ring."
102771 is the lower part of the mixture control unit, so if I understand correctly, he suggests disassembling the mixture unit and apply the same ring+ o-ring inside as from outside (???).

Also, someone in another thread mentioned that Loctite would keep the copper ring in its place. Which Loctite would work here? What is the temperature it has to bear with?

The brass retainer is just deformed slightly so it stays in place. It's only purpose is to hold the "O" ring in place till the pipe is inserted. A little lube on the pipe will make it easier to insert it. The brass retainer and the "O" ring are part of the lower mixture housing. The stalling could be for a myriad of reasons besides the pipe leaking.

[WelmoedJ]

Hello, can you confirm the copper ring and the o-ring can be found on the outer side of the mixture unit only? When checking the idle regulator recently, the pipe came out easily from the mixture unit, and even though I put it back together with the brass ring and o-ring, now the car stalls a few seconds after starting. I asked Ed, who says "102771 inside, stick a brass ring with the rubber o ring."
102771 is the lower part of the mixture control unit, so if I understand correctly, he suggests disassembling the mixture unit and apply the same ring+ o-ring inside as from outside (???).

You don't have to disassemble the mixture unit. You do have to take the mixture unit off, to put the brass "cup" and O-ring into place.
It may help to bend the outside ring of the cup a bit outward if it slides in too smoothly.
The cup should have a firm grip to the edge of the mixture unit hole.

1. Put the O-ring into the cup
2. Place the cup into its hole.
3. Mount the mixture unit
4. Grease the aux air pipe nozzle fairly (to make it slide into the O-ring easily)
5. Put the pipe into position for sliding in.
6. Push and keep the air plate down
7. Use a flashlight to see the pipe entry hole
8. Now with some eye/hand co-ordination, push the pipe gently into the O-ring.
9. If done correctly you will see the tip of the pipe protruding out of the hole.

It may take a couple of tries, but once your hand and eye work together it can be done within minutes.

Aso, someone in another thread mentioned that Loctite would keep the copper ring in its place. Which Loctite would work here? What is the temperature it has to bear with?

Never found the need to use Locktite. I do not know its temp range, so no advise on this part of your questions.

FYI: On my car the brass cup was missing.
I used a large washer and made it to fit the hole and lockup the O-ring.
This was partialy sufficient, but not to my satisfaction.
I made a plate of metal (1 mm thickness) and made a hole in it.
Used two small size screws to hold that against the side of the mixture unit, over the hole.
This locked up the washer and O-ring sufficiently and securely, no leaks anymore.

N.B: I had to drill holes for the 2 screws. If someone wants to solve their problem as I did, make sure all of the metal parts are removed from the mixture unit.
Otherwise those shavings may end up in your cylinders and may cause trouble.

[Szabi]

You don't have to disassemble the mixture unit. You do have to take the mixture unit off, to put the brass "cup" and O-ring into place.

Is removing the mixture unit a difficult job? Any gaskets to be replaced after that? (Not sure if there is a how-to-do article somewhere). I can actually reach the place where the brass ring and o-ring go, probably the only advantage of having thin, long fingers So if it is only about pushing them into place, then probably I can do that without removing the mixture unit.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I used loctite 569 since I had a bottle of it. Loctite has hundreds of types but you need to order those on line.

http://www.all-spec.com/products/569...utm_medium=pla

[PJ Grady Inc.]

If the brass cup does fit tightly any longer there's one way to make it larger.
Carefully tap the material to make it get a larger diameter.
You do that from the inside out all along the "ring" that should keep it tight.

My car was missing the brass cup and I was told it's no longer available.
I therefore used a large copper washer and tapped it until it was a bit larger than the opening it has to fit and stay in.
After that I put the O-ring in and used a pipe (approx 17mm diameter) to press the copper washer in until it locked the O-ring tightly.

It's a tedious and time consuming job, but it works.
Don't use any sealant also because you need to be able to replace the O-ring at some point in time.
You grease the tip of the pipe all around before pushing it in.
Any thick grease will do.

Just so anyone who needs one knows where to get them. I HAVE THE BRASS RING. Actually we have plenty of them. Now you can "grab the brass ring" too!
BTW silicone grease works best on rubber.
Rob Grady

[WelmoedJ]

Just so anyone who needs one knows where to get them. I HAVE THE BRASS RING. Actually we have plenty of them. Now you can "grab the brass ring" too!
BTW silicone grease works best on rubber.
Rob Grady

Thanks for the info, Rob.
The pipe's fit is no issue at the moment.
I now know where to get it, once I need to work in that area again.

For now I stick to the phrase "If it aint broke, don't fix it".

[WelmoedJ]

Is removing the mixture unit a difficult job? Any gaskets to be replaced after that? (Not sure if there is a how-to-do article somewhere). I can actually reach the place where the brass ring and o-ring go, probably the only advantage of having thin, long fingers So if it is only about pushing them into place, then probably I can do that without removing the mixture unit.

If you feel more comfortable trying without removing the mixture unit, why not.

Removing the mixture unit involves:
- disconnecting the auxiliary air pipe (disconnect the ISM to make it easier to remove the pipe)
- disconnecting the accelerator's connection to the mixture unit
- disconnecting electrical wiring to the mixture unit
- removing the W pipe (and afterwards replacing the gaskets)
- removing the vac valve at the back of the mixture unit
- removing the two screws left and right of the mixture unit
If I'm correct this is the moment you can lift the mixture unit and move it away enough to get to the AAP's hole.
Should you want to take it off of the engine, you also have to remove the fuel distributor (3 srews on top of the MU, for one screw you need to remove the left side fuel lines hiding the screw).

Hope this helps.