Thanks for the advice, I will take a look at the bushings this weekend and see what kind of shape they're in.
Oh, and I'm from Cleveland, Ohio and my VIN is 6272
Location: Cleveland OH
Posts: 66
My VIN: 6272
Thanks for the advice, I will take a look at the bushings this weekend and see what kind of shape they're in.
Oh, and I'm from Cleveland, Ohio and my VIN is 6272
Location: Hill Country, TX
Posts: 1,579
My VIN: Formerly 2329
You can put that information on your profile so that anytime you post people will know where you are.
Owen
I.Brew.Beer.
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 1,709
My VIN: 4456 - Owner since March 2011
Club(s): (PNDC)
I think there was a video somewhere of how to adjust the linkage?
Someone will find it and post it I'm sure.
Welcome aboard.
Cheers.
Steve
Cheers
Steven Maguire
#4456
IT'S A TRAP!!!!!
This one?
Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
2006 Volvo S60R
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,327
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
My guess is that he's comparing the shifter action to a modern Honda/BMW/Toyota etc. It won't ever be like that, although replacing all the rubber bushings can go a long way.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,734
My VIN: 01643
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
You know since Martin showed the forward/back linkage in the frame it reminded me of something I had been wondering. The bellcrank assembly in the manuals is about twice as long on the shifter side so that the crank cuts the distance moved in half for the selector.
If you switch over to pivot that the automatic transmissions uses, which instead of being 2:1 is 1:1, would you simply have an easy short throw shifter?
Anyone ever try this?
Sorry, not trying to derail the thread.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,327
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
You would reduce the front/back motion (with appropriately increased effort and strain on the lever mechanism). You would have no impact on the side to side motion, so you would end up with an odd pattern with a short throw but wide pattern. I looked into it but never actually cut up a linkage bar to try it. (well - Peter K did but never actually installed it.) I thought about making a bar with multiple attachment points on the "long" side so that you'd end up with an adjustble shifter as well.
To make a true shortshifter you'd need to re-design the geometry of the cable part as well.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,678
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Very common for the rubber bushings to be worn. Replace them all, they are cheap. Also check the front, left transmission mount for cracks. I have seen where the shifter mechanism in the console is messed up from being forced. When that happens you can shift into reverse without having to gate into it. If you do not have to lift the gearshift knob to get reverse you need to fix the shifter. You should check all of the adjustments, a loose cable can make things feel very sloppy too. As with most things on a 30 year old car, it will make everything work better if you take it apart, clean it all up, lubricate and reassemble. Check the clutch fluid. If it is dark and thick you should flush the clutch and brakes. If you have the plastic hose it should be replaced with a S/S braided one.
David Teitelbaum