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Thread: Electrical Grounding

  1. #61
    Senior Member
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    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    I was posting a possible solution to the flashing light problem but lost it and a long explanation when it asked me to login....

    Anyway, try changing the diode that goes between the Otterstat and Cooling fan relay.
    It is the one with (B)lack-(O)range wires on both ends of it (butted up to one with B-O and Pink on the anode.)
    Short explanation is the diode is shorted internally allowing the induced voltage from the AC clutch coil to get to the otterstat and on to the light along the green wire. Problem could be intermittent because it will only do this when the otterstat is hot enough to call for the fans....

    ?

    Short but sweet - Cool! I'll try that too.

  2. #62
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    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    Update - I temporarily installed a capacitor and a diode as outlined several posts above, and the problem seems to have gone away. I failed to follow proper instructions though, as I installed the capacitor and the diode in series to ground, rather than parallel, but it still worked. I can rewire and try parallel soon.

    In the meantime, the advice about the diode in the pink wire having failed makes a lot of sense. Rather than waiting for the oem one to arrive from Houston, I just ran out and picked up an NTE569 600V 3amp rectifier/diode. Is this a reasonable replacement for the oem 3 amp diode?

    Tom

  3. #63
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTait View Post
    Update - I temporarily installed a capacitor and a diode as outlined several posts above, and the problem seems to have gone away. I failed to follow proper instructions though, as I installed the capacitor and the diode in series to ground, rather than parallel, but it still worked. I can rewire and try parallel soon.

    In the meantime, the advice about the diode in the pink wire having failed makes a lot of sense. Rather than waiting for the oem one to arrive from Houston, I just ran out and picked up an NTE569 600V 3amp rectifier/diode. Is this a reasonable replacement for the oem 3 amp diode?

    Tom
    Yes that diode will work. Also wiring the cap and diode in series will help reduce some noise but parallel will be better.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #64
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
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    Location:  Hill Country, TX

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    I was posting a possible solution to the flashing light problem but lost it and a long explanation when it asked me to login....

    Anyway, try changing the diode that goes between the Otterstat and Cooling fan relay.
    It is the one with (B)lack-(O)range wires on both ends of it (butted up to one with B-O and Pink on the anode.)
    Short explanation is the diode is shorted internally allowing the induced voltage from the AC clutch coil to get to the otterstat and on to the light along the green wire. Problem could be intermittent because it will only do this when the otterstat is hot enough to call for the fans....
    Is this diode located in the fuse area or inline woven into the harness in the engine bay?
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  5. #65
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    Is this diode located in the fuse area or inline woven into the harness in the engine bay?
    It's in the relay fuse bay. In the harness to the right side of the fuse block. There are three (I think) diodes there.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #66
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    It's in the relay fuse bay. In the harness to the right side of the fuse block. There are three (I think) diodes there.
    +1

  7. #67
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    Join Date:  Jun 2016

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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207 View Post
    Run a 2 gauge battery cable ground bus from the front of the car to the rear. Tie every single ground junction into the bus. Of course attach the bus directly to the battery. Only costs $20 or $30 and eliminates all electrical anomalies.
    Attachment 1169 Attachment 1166 Attachment 1167 Attachment 1165 Attachment 1164 Attachment 1170 Attachment 1163 Attachment 1168

    Bill Robertson
    #5939
    Bill, this was what I've been looking for. I have a question though, what are those cubes that take a bunch of little wires and go to the thick cable? Do you have any pictures or instructions on how to create that junction?

    Thanks,
    -Greg

  8. #68
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    Join Date:  Feb 2016

    Posts:    942

    They are saddle portions of clamp on electric lugs from Lowes:

    GroundBusConnector1.jpg

    Cut heat shrink off the OEM junction (leave the soldered connector in place), strip some insulation off the ground bus wire, slide the saddle into place, insert OEM junction into the saddle, tighten the set screw (cut off exposed set screw threads if you're OCD like me), then wrap everything in electrical tape:

    GroundBusConnector2.jpg

    BTW: my bus is 4 gauge, not 2 -- don't know what I was thinking.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  9. #69
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2016

    Posts:    942

    Don't forget to tie the bus directly to the battery:

    GroundBusBatteryConnection.jpg

    One of the weak links appears to be the OEM battery to frame wire. Community lore is the terminal loosens with age. It's located right next to the pavement anyway, which is hardly optimal in terms of rust and grime.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

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