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Thread: How To: Replace steering column bushing

  1. #11
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,405

    My VIN:    01049

    Not trying to argue with Mr. Rice here, but I have had my cut and cram bushing in my car for ~3 years now, without any issue.
    -Mike

    My engine twists my frame.

    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  2. #12
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

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    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by opethmike View Post
    Not trying to argue with Mr. Rice here, but I have had my cut and cram bushing in my car for ~3 years now, without any issue.
    My opinion is based on Farrars experience.

  3. #13
    Senior Member ramblinmike's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Alton, IL

    Posts:    302

    My VIN:    00910

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    I judged a Car at DCS-12 (Delorean Marque Certification) (formerly known as Concours) The car had less than 3000 Miles had been in a Museum since the early 80's. It had NO column bushing. Probably never did considering the low miles.
    910 had no bushing when I got it at 17,000 miles. I figured the original bushing had fallen apart.
    Yeah, it's dirty. I drive it.

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2018

    Location:  England

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    My VIN:    07164

    Club(s):   (DCH)

    holy thread resurrection Batman

    Just to add some learnings 10 years and 1 day later.

    Wise words on the forum as always. However I was still finding the inner column wasn't long enough, although it was at the start until I tried to get the UJ on the back. I grabbed it with a pair of mole grips and then pulled it further out but still struggled and was worried about scraping the end too much.

    So I went the whole hog and removed the steering column from the car totally. For anyone doing this a couple of knee pads (4 bolts on each 13mm I think) and 2 big bolts either side 17mm, Take not of the fancy tab which is over the bolts and aligned to the smaller binnacle bolts (10mm) When removing these drop out and just need putting back in reverse..

    When clamped the inner column came out an inch (as it had been doing in situ) but when giving an extra Ooompf it came out even further until the internal shoulder aligned with the external column flush. I found I could pull it even further (couple of extra inches) so there is a fair amount of wiggle room available.

    This allowed me to see clearly the U joint and the grove and the channel which is needed to be in the right place for the bolt to go through. So I have managed to line it up mark it externally and then refit.

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