Not trying to argue with Mr. Rice here, but I have had my cut and cram bushing in my car for ~3 years now, without any issue.
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
Not trying to argue with Mr. Rice here, but I have had my cut and cram bushing in my car for ~3 years now, without any issue.
-Mike
My engine twists my frame.
1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
2005 Elise, stock
2016 Chevy Cruze
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Location: England
Posts: 112
My VIN: 07164
Club(s): (DCH)
Just to add some learnings 10 years and 1 day later.
Wise words on the forum as always. However I was still finding the inner column wasn't long enough, although it was at the start until I tried to get the UJ on the back. I grabbed it with a pair of mole grips and then pulled it further out but still struggled and was worried about scraping the end too much.
So I went the whole hog and removed the steering column from the car totally. For anyone doing this a couple of knee pads (4 bolts on each 13mm I think) and 2 big bolts either side 17mm, Take not of the fancy tab which is over the bolts and aligned to the smaller binnacle bolts (10mm) When removing these drop out and just need putting back in reverse..
When clamped the inner column came out an inch (as it had been doing in situ) but when giving an extra Ooompf it came out even further until the internal shoulder aligned with the external column flush. I found I could pull it even further (couple of extra inches) so there is a fair amount of wiggle room available.
This allowed me to see clearly the U joint and the grove and the channel which is needed to be in the right place for the bolt to go through. So I have managed to line it up mark it externally and then refit.