Fuel Pump replacement

[Regulus]

Hello everyone,

I'm going to replace my fuel pump soon, but I can't find a step by step in the shop manual.

It looks pretty straight forward. unfasten the screw-down collar, remove the protective cap. Then disconnect the two hoses, lift the pump and sealing ring. then disconnect fuel pick up hose. is this right? to reinstall, reverse the procedure.

How is the filter replaced? do I just reach inside the tank with some rubber gloves and remove the baffle assembly with filter?

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,

[stevedmc]

How is the filter replaced? do I just reach inside the tank with some rubber gloves and remove the baffle assembly with filter?

It sounds like you have it all figured out except for the rubber glove part. I like getting my hands dirty.

[Regulus]

Right on the first guess?

There's a first time for everything.

Thanks,

[David T]

It would seem a pretty straight-forward R & R but there are some tips and tricks that make it go easier. For instance you MUST hold back if you are undoing the hoses to the metal lines. You do NOT want to kink them. You may find the wires going to the pump are all corroded. The vendors sell the short harness. If the rubber cover and boot is old and hard it shrank and you will have a lot of trouble trying to put it back together. The frame might be all rusty. The pick-up hose may be soft, swollen, cut, kinked, etc and need to be replaced. To remove the baffle/filter assembly you have to disassemble it in the tank and remove it in pieces. Reverse order to put back. One-handed and blind. Do not over-tighten the nut on the stud in the tank. You can rip it out of the bottom. The parts and the inside of the tank usually clean up pretty well with Acetone but it is dangerous and toxic. Bottom line, it is never "JUST". plan on the job being bigger than you expect and you won't often be disappointed.
David Teitelbaum

[Regulus]

It would seem a pretty straight-forward R & R but there are some tips and tricks that make it go easier. For instance you MUST hold back if you are undoing the hoses to the metal lines. You do NOT want to kink them.

Hi Dave,

What do you mean by "hold back" exactly? I'm afraid I don't follow.

[Michael]

I would also suggest that if you are going to work on the baffle assembley and pickup, you do this with a near empty tank. Also, pick up a pair of chemical resistant gloves that go halfway up your arm...a good flashlight helps too.

On the fuel pump, it might be a good idea to mark, or take a pic of how the pump sits in the boot and how the boot is orientated. It does matter. Those fuel lines must be positioned correctly or the tire cover will not seat in place over it. The pump pick-up line MUST be positioned correctly or it will kink. Even if it is off just a little bit, it will kink when it gets warm(I personally think it's too thin and soft to begin with..and that would be one of those "upgraded" parts I would like to see).

If the boot, cap, and pickup hose are original, I would go ahead and replace them at this time. It's almost certain the cap has shrank and you will not get it on right, and the boot may easily crack or tear during all the "manhandling" of replacing the pump. The pick-up line is a no-brainer....cheap part.

[82DMC12]

Hi Dave,

What do you mean by "hold back" exactly? I'm afraid I don't follow.

He means don't go all ape-shxt on it. Use some restraint and use the right tools, namely flare-end wrenches - NOT vise-grips or channel locks! Apply the proper angle to the torque so the pipes don't kink. Use TWO wrenches - one on the male, one on the female. There's a lot of ways to mess this up, and only one correct way.

Andy

[Chris 16409]

The pump pick-up line MUST be positioned correctly or it will kink. Even if it is off just a little bit, it will kink when it gets warm(I personally think it's too thin and soft to begin with..and that would be one of those "upgraded" parts I would like to see). The pick-up line is a no-brainer....cheap part.

I bought a new pickup hose from DMCNW, and it was a DMCH reproduction part. That means it's a new part. The hose was much stiffer than the one I removed, and it had the same shape. It's not just a straight hose, it is moulded just like the original. As far as the price, it was over $40, probably because it was a custom made hose. Toby told me they choose the best material that would survive in the gas tank.

[John U]

just did this one....here's some photos that might help you get an idea

one thing that I don't think was mentioned...the baffle is held on by a nut. Also, the baffle should be disassembled in the tank so you can remove it easily

John

[jmrydholm]

Does anyone know the type of screws used in the covers placed over the fuel pump/filler and clutch cylinder area in the hood? I had a bunch of work done on my D and somehow the screws were misplaced. I also seem to have lost my workshop manual... kicking myself over that. I may have to invest in another. This would be part 106002 according to the diagram.