FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 26

Thread: Is this the pin that needs to come out

  1. #11
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,977

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    I'm not sure how well the mineral spirits will penetrate the micro tolerances. But I'm sure using the B-12 chemtool will do the job.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  2. #12
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Taylors SC

    Posts:    5,271

    My VIN:    (former)05429

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    I'm not sure how well the mineral spirits will penetrate the micro tolerances. But I'm sure using the B-12 chemtool will do the job.
    And do a fine job of dissolving the internal o-rings. I would be very careful with this.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

  3. #13
    Senior Member uhhair's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  PA

    Posts:    397

    My VIN:    2681

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    And do a fine job of dissolving the internal o-rings. I would be very careful with this.
    Dave, what would you suggest?

  4. #14
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,977

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Yeah , I was wondering if the O-rings would be effected by submerging it. Perhaps just brushing it on the outside and and pouring a little in the bore to allow it to penetrate around the piston would be better.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  5. #15
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,781

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by uhhair View Post
    So it's OK to just drop the entire distributor in a bowl of mineral spirits?
    I use P7 (by Polywater, NOT PB) if I'm worried about plastic or rubber (and for most anything electrical). It will not bother Nitrile and although Viton will absorb it, it doesn't make it swell/dissolve (even when soaked at 120F for days, IIRC). NAPA and others can order it if they don't stock it...

    If you are not going to take it apart, just concentrate on the plunger. Patience is the key!
    If you are going to take it apart (don't), drop it in acetone and ATF 50/50 mix.
    Last edited by Ron; 08-01-2012 at 10:23 AM.

  6. #16
    Senior Member uhhair's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  PA

    Posts:    397

    My VIN:    2681

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Thanks guys! I will try just getting some solvent down around the plunger and hoping it can work loose. Also, the brass ring surrounding the outside of the piston in the picture, is this where a rubber o-ring goes when I put the unit back on?

  7. #17
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,781

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    It goes against the base...looks like the old one may still be there in your pics...

  8. #18
    Senior Member OverlandMan's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rowlett, TX

    Posts:    1,525

    My VIN:    5482

    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    And do a fine job of dissolving the internal o-rings. I would be very careful with this.
    Hey guys. I know this is an old thread but I never saw a response from anyone to what Dave S. said about using B-12 on the fuel dist. I'm still troubleshooting some starting issues and I'd like to attempt to clean/soak my fuel dist to see if that helps at all. Here's my thread re that whole ordeal: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...ouble-starting
    Jeff in Rowlett, TX

    http://dmctx.blogspot.com

  9. #19
    Senior Member WelmoedJ's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Purmerend, Netherlands

    Posts:    747

    My VIN:    06513

    Club(s):   (DCN)

    Quote Originally Posted by OverlandMan View Post
    Hey guys. I know this is an old thread but I never saw a response from anyone to what Dave S. said about using B-12 on the fuel dist. I'm still troubleshooting some starting issues and I'd like to attempt to clean/soak my fuel dist to see if that helps at all. Here's my thread re that whole ordeal: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...ouble-starting
    As I do not know B-12 I haven't replied to judge it.

    I however can add to my previous entry:
    The nut securing the cylinder in place can also cause issues that show up as a very difficult movement of the piston.
    This nut shoudl only be tightened enough to ensure a smoothly up and down running piston.
    If the piston is stuck try slackening the nut a bit (after releasing the securing washer) and see if that improves the movement.

    In some cases I noticed the too tightened nut causing the cylinder to no longer being exactly round and thus hindering the free movement of the piston.
    Welmoed
    Black D 1981-11 sold
    Toyota Prius III 2009-07 (sold)
    Mazda MX-30 (BEV) 2020-09

  10. #20
    Senior Member OverlandMan's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rowlett, TX

    Posts:    1,525

    My VIN:    5482

    Quote Originally Posted by WelmoedJ View Post
    As I do not know B-12 I haven't replied to judge it.

    I however can add to my previous entry:
    The nut securing the cylinder in place can also cause issues that show up as a very difficult movement of the piston.
    This nut shoudl only be tightened enough to ensure a smoothly up and down running piston.
    If the piston is stuck try slackening the nut a bit (after releasing the securing washer) and see if that improves the movement.

    In some cases I noticed the too tightened nut causing the cylinder to no longer being exactly round and thus hindering the free movement of the piston.
    Thanks WelmoedJ. I should have been more specific. My piston is fine (to the extent is slides freely in the sleeve). My issue is pertaining to general fuel system starting problems and I thought maybe soaking the fuel dist in a chemical like Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner bath, acetone, or similar might do some good.
    Jeff in Rowlett, TX

    http://dmctx.blogspot.com

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •