Won't run without CPR(WUR) and CSI plug swapped

[elfking]

So I have been trying to tackle a few fuel issues as of late, and I got it all back together today...

It won't run without having the WUR and CSI plug swapped, and when when its running, if I remove the plug off the CSI the car will die.

With the plugs in the proper order the car will start for half a second or two then die and will just crank over until I swap the WUR and CSI plugs.

I have replaced the thermotime switch with one from DMCH, which I believe to be working. However based on the symptoms I guess I need test this and verify that it is working correctly.

When I did get it started with the plug swap it does seem to be running very rich, or at least smells rich. (which from what I read happens because it keeps this CIS firing all the time when its swapped)

Anyone have any thoughts on something I may be missing here?

I did some recent work and since then it has this behavior...
Recent work is:
1. Had the Fuel Distributor Rebuilt.
2. Replaced the fuel lines with the braided steel lines from special t auto.

Maybe I knocked something loose, but I haven't figured it out yet...

When you have the engine Cranking over should I be hearing the fuel pump running? I hear it when key is in ON position but I do not hear it when its cranking over trying to start.

[DMCMW Dave]

After changing the FD did you adjust the CO? Sounds like that is set way too lean, or there is something wrong with the FD.

When you have the plugs swapped you are running entirely on the cold start injector, which will be very rich on some cylinders and not on others. You'd probably find that it won't do much faster than a fast idle as there is only one fuel flow rate.

Also - doublecheck the fuel line connections to the FD.

[elfking]

Thanks for the quick reply, I'd there a way to set a 'base' setting for the CO ? I fear I may have got that a bit out of hand.

I'll triple check the lines but I checked twice today and it seemed like I had them right. I used a PDF I found on one of the forums which was a great reference diagram.

Also which direction on the screw makes it more rich?

Thanks for the help!

[jmpdmc]

Also which direction on the screw makes it more rich?

Right to richen, left to lean.


Jeff

[opethmike]

Thanks for the quick reply, I'd there a way to set a 'base' setting for the CO ? I fear I may have got that a bit out of hand.

Place the six injectors into containers (empty six pack of Corona comes in handy)
Jumper the RPM relay to run the fuel pump continuously
Enrich the mixture until the injectors JUST start to drip, then lean it out JUST enough to make them stop

[Bitsyncmaster]

Place the six injectors into containers (empty six pack of Corona comes in handy)
Jumper the RPM relay to run the fuel pump continuously
Enrich the mixture until the injectors JUST start to drip, then lean it out JUST enough to make them stop

I like your very basic how to set the mixture as a baseline. We should keep it in the how to folder.

[elfking]

Right to richen, left to lean.
Pefect thanks!

Jeff

Place the six injectors into containers (empty six pack of Corona comes in handy)
Jumper the RPM relay to run the fuel pump continuously
Enrich the mixture until the injectors JUST start to drip, then lean it out JUST enough to make them stop

I really had a bit of trouble pulling the back left injector, so I pulled the easier ones to get at and took a look, made them do exactly as you described.. Turned it until they were dripping.. backed it off a tiny bit at a time until they stopped dripping.

Put them back in and it fired right up!

I like your very basic how to set the mixture as a baseline. We should keep it in the how to folder.

It really did work great to get me at least up and running. Now I just have a high idle to deal with... It was sitting about 1k which is where it was before I did all this, then I warmed it up some more and drove it around a block or two and it then wanted to sit at 1500RPM, so I guess something is still a bit off.

[opethmike]

Thanks guys, but the credit goes to Dave Swingle, as I learned the trick from him.

There are a couple of things that can cause a high idle. My personal experience for a high idle was a mis-adjusted throttle stop screw for the idle microswitch. I lowered it half of a turn, and was back down to the ~900 RPM I like. That may or may not be your issue.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Now I just have a high idle to deal with... It was sitting about 1k which is where it was before I did all this, then I warmed it up some more and drove it around a block or two and it then wanted to sit at 1500RPM, so I guess something is still a bit off.

A bunch of things can prevent the idle system from holding 775 RPM (closed loop).

1) Vacuum leaks. These increase the idle RPM and when the idle motor is fully closed you have lost closed loop idle.

2) Ignition advance is on. This is the same problem, increases idle speed past the point the idle system can work. The idle switch not adjusted or working will cause this. As will the connector is off of the advance solenoid.

3) Curb idle adjusted to high. That is the lower screw on the throttle arm. Same problem.

4) Air bypass screws not closed. Those three brass adjustments must be closed.

Of course a failed idle ECU and or idle motor will cause it.

[opethmike]

Oh, since you have the car running, you can now get a fine tune of the idle mixture set. Do you have a multimeter with a dwell meter on it?

If you do, plug it into the diagnostic port (plastic thing behind the driver's side cylinder head). Then, once the car is warmed up, you should see the reading fluctuating. You want to set it so that the average of the reading is 45.

There is a pdf attached to a message on another forum that describes the process in better detail:

http://www.dmcplace.com/showthread.p...8&pid=37#pid37