Crank no start.. Please Help!!

[DMC5180]

Can you post a couple photos of the Engine?

When checking the 3 brass screws always turn them CCW first to see if they move, then CW till they stop. That way you know they are closed.

[krs09]

idle control, if you don't have an idle control valve (non DeLorean application). If your idle control does not work, and those are OPEN, it will cause it to not idle if you close them up...

Oooo. The idle seemed ok. There is a switch that sticks a little and the idle speed runs high if i dont make sure the switch is pushed all the way in, when the button is pushed all the way in the idle speed sounds like its where it supposed to be. So if it idles ok (when i get it started) should i leave the brass nuts open or closed?? I gues ill just test them out. Thanks so much.

[DMC5180]

You verified you Idle Speed Motor is working when the switch is depressed. That's good. If you rotate the throttle spool CCW does the switch trip? If not, you may need to set the switch adjustment screw in a couple turns or shorten the linkage rod slightly. A working ISM means the 3 brass screws should be closed per OE spec.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Can you post a couple photos of the Engine?

When checking the 3 brass screws always turn them CCW first to see if they move, then CW till they stop. That way you know they are closed.

+1

[David T]

Sounds like your CSV is not operating on cold start-up. Not a good idea to start driving a Delorean that sat for 20 years without rebuilding the brake system. I just got one going that the owner claims sat for (only) 4 years. In just a couple of miles he lost all of his brake fluid. Had to limp home on his E brake. Ditto for the clutch hydraulics if a 5-speed. Try starting it cold with the plug swap. Don't mess with the mixture screw, it's probably close enough. The fuel plunger can also be stuck (it was on the one I just revived). That would make it run VERY rich. Watch the muffler and cat, they will start to glow red!
David Teitelbaum

[krs09]

You verified you Idle Speed Motor is working when the switch is depressed. That's good. If you rotate the throttle spool CCW does the switch trip? If not, you may need to set the switch adjustment screw in a couple turns or shorten the linkage rod slightly. A working ISM means the 3 brass screws should be closed per OE spec.

Perfect. Ill see if i can adjust that screw near the spool to try and fix that sticky switch and ill be sure to close all those screws later today. I think i may need a new spring that pushes that button down (may not have enough tension), ill try that adjustment first. Thank you again.. This fourm is the best.. Just every one trying to revive these classics

[Dangermouse]

Can you post a couple photos of the Engine?

When checking the 3 brass screws always turn them CCW first to see if they move, then CW till they stop. That way you know they are closed.

Otherwise you will shear off the head! Ask me how I know?


I remember this car and the fuzzy dash (I'd like to hear more about that some day, as it didn't look like a cover.

Anyway, I kept a pic of the engine, which I will post to help the OP out



as I wonder what the cylinder in the upper left of the picture is and whether it plays a part in this particular issue?

04870-6.jpg

[jawn101]

Otherwise you will shear off the head! Ask me how I know?


I remember this car and the fuzzy dash (I'd like to hear more about that some day, as it didn't look like a cover.

Anyway, I kept a pic of the engine, which I will post to help the OP out



as I wonder what the cylinder in the upper left of the picture is and whether it plays a part in this particular issue?

04870-6.jpg

Also strange, the rubber hose from the oil breather cap that usually goes to the air filter box is routed off the edge of the photo. The idle control switch looks non-original. I don't see the FTE switch, do you guys? The hot air stove and air valve have been removed but I don't see any evidence of a cold air intake. There are definitely some PO mods here that need to be sorted out before too much time is spent chasing down the starting issues IMO.

[krs09]

Otherwise you will shear off the head! Ask me how I know?


I remember this car and the fuzzy dash (I'd like to hear more about that some day, as it didn't look like a cover.

Anyway, I kept a pic of the engine, which I will post to help the OP out



as I wonder what the cylinder in the upper left of the picture is and whether it plays a part in this particular issue?

04870-6.jpg

Well i tell ya what.. Thats my engine.. I cant believe you have a pic of my car but it was from alabama.. Thats my car for sure, the after market coolant jar and cap, the hose off the side of the pic (i did order one and fixed that). Thats crazy.. When or Why did you see the car? Gotta love that dash right?..(ugh). But i do like the custom seats. Any info you have on that pic would be great. Thank you so much

[krs09]

Also strange, the rubber hose from the oil breather cap that usually goes to the air filter box is routed off the edge of the photo. The idle control switch looks non-original. I don't see the FTE switch, do you guys? The hot air stove and air valve have been removed but I don't see any evidence of a cold air intake. There are definitely some PO mods here that need to be sorted out before too much time is spent chasing down the starting issues IMO.

You are right about all that.. That idle control switch is giving me a hard time too.. What is the FTE switch? The air valve and hoses were gone when i got it (about 2wks ago) but i read that stuff may not even be necessary so i got a duct to connect the element housing to the cold air duct and just leave the rest out (i hope thats ok). What else looks non factory?? Been looking at these cars for years and years and just dont really know what your looking at till you have one in front of you (its always harder than you think.. lucky me)