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Thread: Lower control arm reinforcement / replacement options?

  1. #1
    DeLorean Driver
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reading PA

    Posts:    335

    My VIN:    2638

    Lower control arm reinforcement / replacement options?

    My LCA's are in fair shape, but have a nice coat of rust on them and are original. I figured I would pull them out when I do the front spring upgrade and either replace or reinforce them. I saw somewhere not too long ago where someone had additional support "sticks" on their lower control arms, they looked pretty good, sold here-

    http://www.delorean.com/dmcmidwest/powerparts.html


    Of course, they are $340 and that seems kind of steep for what they are.

    Then there is the replacement option, The beefier units are sold at specialT for $550+ core?


    Or the stainless units from- http://www.pearce-design.com/Product...erControl.html
    at $950 for the pair.


    The flimsy stamped steel rusty original units could use upgrading for sure, but what is the best bang for the buck? I am thinking I like the looks of the simple reinforcement "sticks"
    Still rocking the Ducellier

  2. #2
    "Former Delorean owning Guru" Spittybug's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Hill Country, TX

    Posts:    1,579

    My VIN:    Formerly 2329

    For what it's worth, when I did my front end I took off the control arms and welded a plate across the bottom to box the arm. I also reinforced the end where the ball joint is. Not the prettiest welds in the world, but they have stood the test of time. I have my own MIG, but even if you just took them to someone to have done after sandblasting, this would be your least expensive and IMHO perfectly satisfactory solution. That is POR-15 anti rust paint they are painted with. It's pretty shiny stuff and with the flash it looks like uneven coverage. Before installing I top coated them with my stainless steel paint. Too bad nobody sees them!
    Attached Images
    Last edited by Spittybug; 06-26-2011 at 10:57 AM. Reason: paint comments
    Owen
    I.Brew.Beer.

  3. #3
    Banned
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    1,068

    Unfortunately boxing in the LCA's does not solve one of their weak points -- ball joint end cracking or even breaking off altogether (you can't box underneath the ball joint).

    On #2508 I decided to go with girth: Bryne's 1/8" thick LCA's (ball joint pad is 1/4" thick), augmented with Ed's outriggers:
    ByrneArm9.jpg
    It's as close to a double wishbone as we can easily get. Dry runs have been positive. If they prove bulletproof in service, I'll do the same thing to #5939.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  4. #4
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207 View Post
    Unfortunately boxing in the LCA's does not solve one of their weak points -- ball joint end cracking or even breaking off altogether (you can't box underneath the ball joint).

    On #2508 I decided to go with girth: Bryne's 1/8" thick LCA's (ball joint pad is 1/4" thick), augmented with Ed's outriggers:
    ByrneArm9.jpg
    It's as close to a double wishbone as we can easily get. Dry runs have been positive. If they prove bulletproof in service, I'll do the same thing to #5939.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939
    I like that setup and it's probably what I'm going to do with mine eventually.

    Andy
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Memphis, TN

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    My VIN:    1905

    I bought the stainless ones...supposedly one of the last sets as they are out of production. They are so pretty they could sit on a bookshelf in your office...I almost hate to install them (winter project this year).
    Last edited by tiger38117; 06-26-2011 at 08:57 PM.

    VIN 1905...Black interior, 5spd, Gas Flap, Machined Rims, antenna windshield, as clean underneath as on top

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Quote Originally Posted by tiger38117 View Post
    I bought the stainless ones...supposedly one of the last sets as they are out of production. They are so pretty they could sit on a bookshelf in your office...I almost hate to install them (winter priject this year).
    I think DMCH still has them.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #7
    Banned
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    Posts:    1,068

    Stainless is a pretty soft metal, about on par with Grade 2 steel. Unless Bryan's control arms are thicker than OEM, they will still be susceptible to bending and flexing.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  8. #8
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  sacramento

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    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    those stainless ones look like solid CNC'd billet,or are they molded?


    I really want to install a proper lower A arm in my car, just need to get up and do it.

  9. #9
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

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    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by content22207 View Post
    On #2508 I decided to go with girth: Bryne's 1/8" thick LCA's (ball joint pad is 1/4" thick)
    For the record, I ordered a set of LCAs from Bryne about a month ago and installed them a few weeks back. They are excellent.

    A few months back someone created a thread on the old forum warning people not to buy Bryne's LCAs. Well, I called Bryne, verified the problem had been corrected, ordered a set and installed them the following week. This is a really high quality product.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    My VIN:    03572

    The stainless are welded plates. I think they are thicker than stock. Dave S had weighed them but I forgot the numbers.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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