This part on this diagram
101259 - LWR LINK BOLT - Part #15
The nut for it shows SAE 1/2". Is that correct? I think it's metric M12 - unless I mixed up something when I took my suspension apart.
Here is the diagram.
5-3-0.jpg
Thanks
Jeff
This part on this diagram
101259 - LWR LINK BOLT - Part #15
The nut for it shows SAE 1/2". Is that correct? I think it's metric M12 - unless I mixed up something when I took my suspension apart.
Here is the diagram.
5-3-0.jpg
Thanks
Jeff
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Vin 16245 (83, 5sp Blk) aka Stinky
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
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I agree with Josh, and if my memory is correct it's the same size bolt that secures the upper link (threads into the frame). That should be 1/2"-20 thread also.
Edit: The diagram lists both of these bolts as item #15 so my statement above should be correct.
Location: England
Posts: 112
My VIN: 07164
Club(s): (DCH)
Hi All,
Frame is back from Galv and paint, I need to clear the threads for the upper rear control arm bolt.
With one side I managed to clear it with the bolt but with the other side it wont start so I will need to re-cut it.
Whilst the bolt fits through the chassis hole to the captive bit the tap doesnt. It only gets about 1/3 through.
I re-drilled the chassis hole to 1/2 in order to get the bolt through (as it was painted and galv over etc) I kept it bear minimum to keep the suspension nice and tight.
Is it safe to enlarge enough to get the 1/2 tap through in order to re-tap that hole ?
Location: England
Posts: 112
My VIN: 07164
Club(s): (DCH)
Thanks Babis, its definitely a UNF tap I have double checked and its new in the pack. I assume any 1/2 tap should be the same width.
I think the reality is the 1/2 UNF tap is slightly larger than my 1/2 drill bit. I know I have the hole fairly tight as its a bit of a struggle to get the bolt through so I probably need to open it up a bit.
I have been OTT on all of this re-drilling and I know with my new front LCA's the factory drilled holes leave the bolt with a fraction of movement as do most holes for bolts on cars really.
Last edited by er1c; 01-23-2021 at 02:32 PM.
Location: England
Posts: 112
My VIN: 07164
Club(s): (DCH)
Well after thinking I was losing the plot I managed to find some batteries for my calipers.
Bolt 12.2
Tap 12.2
So I think what's happened is as the bolt is so tight on the hole its tricky to squeeze through. Now keep in mind that the tap is a set of sharp teeth, they are dragging on the surface.
It made sense as soon as I measured it, so I will probably just file the hole a tiny bit more to allow the tap to run through.
The simple ones are always the best.
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
All the suspension pivot bolts are 1/2", front and back.
Also, the rear brake caliper bolts are imperial threads.
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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