The Resurrection of 3205

[sdg3205]

Like a few others, I started a thread documenting my restoration a while back.

I've got a few new issues I need some advice with, so I'm going to bring it back from the dead!

1. Oil leaks - see the pics below. Though I've used new gaskets on the valve covers, I'm getting a leak. Do i need another new gasket? Also, whatever that is next to the oil filter, it leaks too. I cleaned the oil off for the picture.

2. I changed my front brakes (pads, shims and rotors). Now I've got a shudder under brake load. Does this mean my rotors are out of round?

Any advice? Thanks!

[Rich]

1. Oil leaks - Though I've used new gaskets on the valve covers, I'm getting a leak. Do i need another new gasket? Also, whatever that is next to the oil filter, it leaks too. I cleaned the oil off for the picture.

2. I changed my front brakes (pads, shims and rotors). Now I've got a shudder under brake load. Does this mean my rotors are out of round?

1.a. Valve cover oil leak; When you replaced the valve cover gaskets did you scrape the head or the cover with a hard tool to get the old gasket off? If so then you may have damaged the aluminum seating surfaces. In that case the new gasket cannot seal it well. An intact new gasket between undamaged surfaces with proper torquing should seal OK.

1.b. The item next to the oil filter is the oil pressure sending unit. If it is leaking at the threads then tightening may stop it. If it is leaking from the body then replace it.

2. Brake shudder. One likely cause is contamination on some area of one or both rotors (grease, brake fluid, hand oil) during the brake work. It's not always visible. Try a few doses of brake cleaner on all surfaces (with calipers off or protected from spray) before going for rotor resurfacing.

Another possible cause of shudder shortly after renewing the brakes is improper brake bed-in. See link. Again, resurfacing should give you a fresh start. As with most tech topics this one is not unique to DeLorean brake systems.

Link: Disc brake bed-in procedure pdf

"Using your brakes hard immediately after fitting new discs and pads can result in permanent damage to the discs, poor brake performance, brake judder, shortened disc life..."

[DMCMW Dave]

Like a few others, I started a thread documenting my restoration a while back.

I've got a few new issues I need some advice with, so I'm going to bring it back from the dead!

1. Oil leaks - see the pics below. Though I've used new gaskets on the valve covers, I'm getting a leak. Do i need another new gasket? Also, whatever that is next to the oil filter, it leaks too. I cleaned the oil off for the picture.

2. I changed my front brakes (pads, shims and rotors). Now I've got a shudder under brake load. Does this mean my rotors are out of round?

Any advice? Thanks!

1a. Did you use a sealant? Did you get ALL The old gasket stuff off?
1b. the other answer is fine

2. Did you check that the pistons are not stuck (causes overheating/warping/outgassing etc.)? Did you have the rotors resurfaced?

[sdg3205]

1a. Did you use a sealant? Did you get ALL The old gasket stuff off?
1b. the other answer is fine

2. Did you check that the pistons are not stuck (causes overheating/warping/outgassing etc.)? Did you have the rotors resurfaced?

1. I did not use a sealant. Should I have? I got all the old gasket off.

2. The outer front left (DS) was seized, but it's fine now. I did not have the rotors resurfaced, they were brand new from DMCH. Do I need to do this?

[sdg3205]

Today I removed my CPR. When the car is cold, it accelerates very rough, with dead spots as you accelerate. I was informed it was most likely my CPR, which did make sense. This will last about 5 minutes of initial driving and seems to occur between 500 and 3000 RPM.

Upon inspection I see no burnt wires or clogged screens. Now I'm thinking it could be the thermistor in the Y-pipe back down in the valley.

Some pics are attached.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Today I removed my CPR. When the car is cold, it accelerates very rough, with dead spots as you accelerate. I was informed it was most likely my CPR, which did make sense. This will last about 5 minutes of initial driving and seems to occur between 500 and 3000 RPM.

Upon inspection I see no burnt wires or clogged screens. Now I'm thinking it could be the thermistor in the Y-pipe back down in the valley.

Some pics are attached.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Make sure you get power on the connector on the CPR when the engine is running. Without power on the CPR you will be running very rich for a long time.

Have you set your mixture after the engine has fully warmed up? That adjustment does affect the mixture during warmup.

[Bitsyncmaster]

1. I did not use a sealant. Should I have? I got all the old gasket off.

2. The outer front left (DS) was seized, but it's fine now. I did not have the rotors resurfaced, they were brand new from DMCH. Do I need to do this?

I have always used a sealant on valve cover gaskets. Not sure if with our cast aluminum covers can do without it but the old steel covers would never seal with heavy application of sealant.

[sdg3205]

Make sure you get power on the connector on the CPR when the engine is running. Without power on the CPR you will be running very rich for a long time.

Have you set your mixture after the engine has fully warmed up? That adjustment does affect the mixture during warmup.

Can I just use a volt meter and look for 12v at the CPR harness, Dave?

I have not set me mixture. I think Mike outlined a good method using 6 corona bottles not long ago, but if you've got a good one please do tell. Or can I use the work shop manual?

Thanks!

[opethmike]

Start with the empty bottles method to get it 'in the ballpark'. Then hook a dwell meter into the diagnostic port and set it from there.

[sdg3205]

Start with the empty bottles method to get it 'in the ballpark'. Then hook a dwell meter into the diagnostic port and set it from there.

Mike, do you recall which thread was it in where you outlined this method?