I degreased the suspect area thoroughly then went for a cruise to see where the oil appeared.
It looks like it's coming from 2 spots:
1. The threaded portion of the oil sensor
2. 3 specific bolts on the oil pan.
So here's my question
For 1, can I remove the oil filter so as to access the oil sensor to tighten it without loosing my oil? Otherwise you cannot access it even with the muffler bracket removed.
For 2 there is no weeping on the oil pan gasket, it is JUST on those 3 bolts, like its seeping through the threading or something. Can I tighten or create small gaskets just for those bolts from a gasket kit (store bought)?
Make sure you get power on the connector on the CPR when the engine is running. Without power on the CPR you will be running very rich for a long time.
Have you set your mixture after the engine has fully warmed up? That adjustment does affect the mixture during warmup.
Hey Dave,
I've got about 14v at the CPR harness.
Still trying to figure out the best way to adjust the mixture.
I've hit the full speed micro switch at operating temp without any noticeable difference in FV noise or idle.
What do you mean by testing the dwell "on the FV"? Do i pull of the harness and use that?
Put a long screwdriver on the FV and hold the handle on your ear. It works just like a stethoscope. You should hear it buzz loudly during warmup or with WOT switch pressed no matter what the mixture setting is. It should also buzz about the same intensity running hot if your mixture is close to correct. If you don't get a buzz you have an electrical problem.
You attach the dwell on the orange wire going to the diagnostic port and use engine ground for the dwell ground. You can also read the dwell on the red/brown wire going to the FV. The FV gets a signal of varying duty cycle to control it's operation. Reading that duty cycle will let you adjust the mixture to optimal setting.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 07-05-2011 at 03:15 PM.
Put a long screwdriver on the FV and hold the handle on your ear. It works just like a stethoscope. You should hear it buzz loudly during warmup or with WOT switch pressed no matter what the mixture setting is. It should also buzz about the same intensity running hot if your mixture is close to correct. If you don't get a buzz you have an electrical problem.
You attach the dwell on the orange wire going to the diagnostic port and use engine ground for the dwell ground. You can also read the dwell on the red/brown wire going to the FV. The FV gets a signal of varying duty cycle to control it's operation. Reading that duty cycle will let you adjust the mixture to optimal setting.
I figured it all out.
One of the pins under the lambda relay was pushed out. Just goes to show the most simple solution is usually the best one. I've been running a poop-tastically rich car as long as I've had it.
The FV fired right up. I adjusted the mixture on my analogue dwell meter and got a fluctuation between 20 and 40 at warm idle. The mixture was so rich just to overcome the missing FV operation. Leaned it out quite a lot.
The difference in the car is unbelievable. I have power before 3000 RPM now! A lot of it! The hunting idle is also gone - even at operating temperature with headlights, cooling fans and cabin HVAC fans on.
For 1, can I remove the oil filter so as to access the oil sensor to tighten it without loosing my oil?
For 2 there is no weeping on the oil pan gasket, it is JUST on those 3 bolts, like its seeping through the threading or something. Can I tighten or create small gaskets just for those bolts from a gasket kit (store bought)?
1. Yes. You'll lose some of the oil from the filter when you remove it. Almost all of the oil is below that, in the sump, where it will stay.
2. No harm in making sure the pan bolts are tight all around. Be careful not to over-tighten them. The book calls for 7-11 lb-ft on those.
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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Dave M vin 03572
