Engine bay cleanup/restoration advice

[Mark D]

If you remove the engine lift rings, where do you clamp the negative cable when you jump-start the car?

This was my first thought as well. I use that front lift ring when I hook up my battery charger after the car has been sitting in winter storage.

[Bitsyncmaster]

This was my first thought as well. I use that front lift ring when I hook up my battery charger after the car has been sitting in winter storage.

Just use any metal part bolted to the engine block. I've never jumped my car so never thought about it. For battery charging I use the cig-lighter.

[Tillsy]

Just use any metal part bolted to the engine block. I've never jumped my car so never thought about it. For battery charging I use the cig-lighter.

Surely the wiring for that socket wouldn't be rated for that much current?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Surely the wiring for that socket wouldn't be rated for that much current?

My charger (lab bench power supply) I just current limit at 5 amps but it never needs that much anyway.

[Ozzie]

A topic near and dear to me. I don't know why, but I also like to detail my engine bay.
I'm late to this post, but you've gotten some great advice here already.

Check out my blog where I dedicated a posting to the same topic. It also has details of the engine harness re-route.
"Cleaning up the engine bay over time"

It has been a work in progress over time, here is a more recent picture 2109's engine bay for ideas/reference.

[ALEXAKOS]

DAMN!!!
Wait where are my sunglasses! I need to take a closer loo at that engine!!!

[Stainless]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/334145...dmc-12/page-4/

This is a writeup I did a few years back on the cold air intake. Lots of pics and explanation.


You can buy the spectre air duct at Autozone
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=422454_0_0_

The part number is 8741. It's the 4" black duct...you can get chrome or blue if you prefer also...I'd stick with the black

In this pic you can see a small chunk of the duct that I cut off sitting on the intake manifold. The length it comes in is slightly longer than you need. The rubber boot ends thread on and off so it's easy to cut to length.

Hey Mark,

I am doing this mod today. I noticed that you put a silver colored clamp of some kind around the new tubing where it meets up with the air box. Mine feels nice and snug, but I would prefer that it not come off in the future. What clamp did you use?

[Mark D]

Hey sorry for not answering sooner on the silver clamp, I've been out of town this past week.

I don't remember exactly where I got the clamp from that you're seeing in the photo but it's just a standard worm drive hose clamp that you should be able to find at your local hardware store. I clamped the flexible duct in place with the air box off the car so I could have the nice plain silver part facing upwards with the clamp screw rotated out of sight.

[Stainless]

I have been busy working on the look of the engine bay. I have a lot of bolts that have surface rust on them. I have cleaned up a few of them using a wire wheel and they look brand new. My fear is that if I just reinstall them after this that they'll get rusty again. Is cleaning them up and then reinstalling them a good option, or should I take additional steps to ensure the look lasts?

[Farrar]

I have been busy working on the look of the engine bay. I have a lot of bolts that have surface rust on them. I have cleaned up a few of them using a wire wheel and they look brand new. My fear is that if I just reinstall them after this that they'll get rusty again. Is cleaning them up and then reinstalling them a good option, or should I take additional steps to ensure the look lasts?

You could cover the threads with tape and spray the heads with paint or clearcoat... or send them off to have them professionally zinc-plated before you reinstall them... or just buy new zinc-plated bolts... depends on how much time and money you want to spend on the project.