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Thread: sluggish at higher rpms

  1. #11
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Actually the dwell should be a steady 50 to 60 Cold (<60F) and fluctuating between 35 and 45 when warmed up.
    There are several other dwell tests you should perform listed in the WS manual, D:04:15
    Thanks for the correction Ron!
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  2. #12
    Senior Member Bikercmbc's Avatar
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    Thanks Ron. I was going to use the timing light to check the timing adv but my light wasn't working so ill get another one this weekend. Timing adv and mixture were the first things that came to my head when I felt this problem.

  3. #13
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    NP!

    Just remember to set the CO absolutely last if you have to adjust it....

  4. #14
    Member
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    Smile

    Are you supposed to turn the mixture screw when the engine is cold? My cold dwell reading is at around 45 instead of 50 and when I turn the adjustment screw, the needle on the dwell meter doesn't seem to change at all. I'm also having a cold start problem and I think the mixture is causing it. What's happening is it starts for a half a second and dies, then takes several cranks to start and I get a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust which eventually clears up when the car is running. I've never had this problem before and this started when I reinstalled my intake. I don't mean to hijack this thread but any advice would be great!

  5. #15
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC Fanatic View Post
    Are you supposed to turn the mixture screw when the engine is cold? My cold dwell reading is at around 45 instead of 50 and when I turn the adjustment screw, the needle on the dwell meter doesn't seem to change at all. I'm also having a cold start problem and I think the mixture is causing it. What's happening is it starts for a half a second and dies, then takes several cranks to start and I get a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust which eventually clears up when the car is running. I've never had this problem before and this started when I reinstalled my intake. I don't mean to hijack this thread but any advice would be great!
    No, because cold the O2 sensor isn't working. so the dwell meter will not change.


    Puff of blue smoke on starting = valve seals are leaky. How do the spark plugs look?
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  6. #16
    Member
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    Just did a full tuneup with new spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I also forgot to mention that the blue/yellow starter wire is unplugged because the electrical connector broke off, but I'm assuming this wouldn't be causing this?

  7. #17
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC Fanatic View Post
    Just did a full tuneup with new spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I also forgot to mention that the blue/yellow starter wire is unplugged because the electrical connector broke off, but I'm assuming this wouldn't be causing this?
    That wire is just to boost your spark when starting the engine.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #18
    Member
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    If I reconnect it, do you think it'll help turn the engine over faster and possibly solve my issue? Or is it not worth it?

  9. #19
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC Fanatic View Post
    If I reconnect it, do you think it'll help turn the engine over faster and possibly solve my issue? Or is it not worth it?
    It won't crank faster but may start quicker because of higher spark power. If you have the Eagle starter, just connect it to the white/red wire.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #20
    Member
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    Yea I figured it's worth a shot to reconnect the wire and see if it makes a difference. Thanks for your advice

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